luceneidert

About Montmartre… and wine

Do you know that it’s possible to sip on the fine wine made of grapes grown in a Parisian vineyard? Not many people are aware of this oddity despite that there are five vineyards in the French capital. If you’re going to be in Paris between October 11^th and 15^th, you may consider going to Montmartre to join in the celebration of its 84th wine festival. Here is some information about this unique event:

One of Montmartre’s vineyards, which is called “Clos Montmartre”, has a very unusual history: Montmartre used to be a hill outside of Paris, and for many centuries it was partly covered with vineyards. Unfortunately, by the beginning of the 20^th century, the vineyards were gone and had been replaced by houses and buildings. In 1933, the City of Paris decided to have some constructions built on the wasteland it owned at the corner of rue Saint-Vincent and rue des Saules. The plan was eventually abandoned due to the opposition of local residents. Instead, the association “Le Vieux Montmartre” was allowed to create a vineyard where the wasteland was. This was a true challenge as the land was facing the North and was unable to be exposed to enough sunshine, but somehow the vineyard survived and in 1934 the first “Fete des Vendanges” was organised there, and it has been celebrated every 2^nd week of October ever since.

This harvest festival is extremely famed and captivating. For a period of 5 days, Montmartre will be exceedingly flourishing owing to the concerts, special events, exhibitions, organised visits and even balls that are going to be held over there. One of the special events is “Parcours du Goût” which invites you to taste local food. Moreover, Portugal will be the honoured guest of this year and it will bring you specialties from 5 Portuguese regions. On Thursday, October 12th, you can immerse yourself in the traditional Portuguese singing (Fado concert) at the theatre “Les Trois Baudets”. http://www.lestroisbaudets.com/spectacle/fetes-des-vendanges-lumieres-et-vins-du-portugal/

Traditionally, the “ban des vendanges” is supposed to be the opening of a grape harvest. In Montmartre, the grapes are harvested in September, but there is still a “Ban des Vendanges” during the festivities. It will take place on Saturday, Oct.14th at 10 am at the vineyard. Unfortunately, you can only participate if you are one of the lucky ones who got invited. Otherwise, you still can appreciate the incredibly colourful parade that follows the “Ban des Vendanges” which starts at Clos Montmartre at 11.45 am and finishes at Place Jules Joffrin at 1 pm. You’ll be able to see the members of the République de Montmartre with their long black capes, black hats, and red scarves. Among them are ministers, ambassadors, and of course the president. The “Petits Poulbots” is another local tradition, a drummer group made of young Montmartre inhabitants. The people wearing long capes and holding a banner are “Confréries”, associations of people who have a common interest. Usually, there are also Batucada groups (Brazilian drums) and Bagads (Celtic music) groups from Britanny. This year, Tuna, a group of Portuguese students who pay for their studies by playing music, will participate the event as well. Majorettes (some sort of cheerleaders) and many other surprises are waiting for you!

As for the wine “Clos Montmartre”, let’s be honest, it used to be criticised as “not worth drinking”. Thanks to some enologists, the vineyard experienced positive evolution afterwards. Nowadays, this Parisian wine is said to be “decent”. Clos Montmartre is a small vineyard of less than 2000 square meters, and its usual production varies from 1000 to 2000 bottles a year. The Syndicat d’Initiative of Montmartre has them in the store all year round, and you can also buy one at 50 euros a bottle from their site: https://www.comitedesfetesdemontmartre.com/?p=21.

A bit too expensive for a “decent” wine? Well, it’s a good deed too, since the Syndicat d’Initiative allocates the money to their charitable projects…

La Coulée Verte: An Oasis In The Heart Of Paris

City life can be tiring, and a day might come when you’ll feel like taking a rest from Paris. Here’s a secret place you can go to enjoy the soothing powers of nature, all this without even leaving Paris. This place is nearly a secret because it was created fairly recently, in the 80’s and 90’s. To make it even more secret, the maps and signs you’ll see in Paris don’t all call it by it’s official name, which is La Coulée Verte Réné Dumont, but call it by the two names that were first used, Viaduc des Arts for a section and Promenade Plantée for another.

La Coulée Verte replaced the tracks of a railway line which ceased to be used in 1969. It is now a pleasant 4,7 kilometers long promenade (2,9 miles), where you feel very far away from Paris.

It is not at all a monotonous strip. As a matter of fact, it is made of very diverse sections:

The first one, also known as Viaduc des Arts starts close to the Opéra Bastille (situated close to our residences Bastille and Marjorelle), on rue de Lyon. In order to reach it, you’ll have to go up the stairs of what looks like a building with Viaduc des Arts written in large letters. And there it is, like a long, endless terrace, covered with numerous bushes and trees. You can observe people taking a stroll, jogging, or just relaxing on the many benches. Soon, you’ll reach basins surrounded by bushes and flowers. Ducks use them to take a wash, sparrows to take a drink. But above all, the viaduct is an ideal observation point to study the architecture of Parisian buildings. The path is elevated to the height of the third floor of the surrounding buildings and therefore you can easily see details of the elaborate roofs of the Haussmannien buildings, with their strange decorations, roof accesses and walkways for the chimney sweeps.

Next, you’ll cross a park named Jardin de Reuilly-Paul-Pernin. It is an amazing collection of little gardens built around different themes. You might choose to go over it using a modern bridge that bounces a little. But should you choose to visit the parc, you must take a look at La Pétillante, which is a fountain where you can fill a recipient with Parisian water, either at room temperature, or cool or as fizzy water. This treat being free, many locals come to fill their bottles, as if were spring water.

*Jardin de Reuilly-Paul-Pernin* (Credit: James Neidert)

Next, you’ll reach the section of Allée Vivaldi. It is at street level and has a more classical look, as it is a long park in the middle of a sreet. However, should you want to have a meal, Allée Vivaldi offers a fantastic choice of restaurants: Ristorante Bella Tavola, Jodhpur Palace, Le Village Corse, Les Jardins de Manchourie and Le Janissaire, the latter being specialized in Turkish gastronomy.

Now, you are ready for the last and most extravagant section, the part which was first baptized La Promenade Plantée. It is a paradise for nature lovers, with a large variety of plants, carefully arranged in an organized mess. Bikers and joggers haven’t been forgotten and the track is divided in two partitions, one side is paved, the other covered in compacted clay. Should you want to watch a game of boules (a very French specialty) you might catch a group of “boulistes” playing on the dedicated “terrain de boulistes”. Or you could try one of the exercise machines to work out, thus entertaining the groups of people relaxing on the nearby benches.

La Promenade Plantée (Credit: James Neidert)

La coulée Verte ends with another park named Square Charles Péguy. Should you not feel like walking back to Bastille, the nearest metro station is Porte Dorée.

Whatever you do, don’t get locked in as La Coulée Verte is closed at night! Check the closure times indicated on the boards as they range from 5.45 p.m. in winter to 9.30 p.m. in summer.

Bonne promenade!

All photo credits to James Neidert.

Paris: How To Spend A Day With Rodin

The year 2017 marks the centenary of the death of the French sculptor Auguste Rodin. This is why you’ll hear a lot about him, should you visit France this year.

If you’re staying in our apartments in Paris, here’s a suggestion on how you could spend a day with Rodin and learn many things about this great artist.

A centenary exhibition has been organised at the Grand Palais (3 Avenue du Général Eisenhower) until July 31^st. It is a huge success, and in order to avoid queuing up for hours, you can book your ticket here. It is also a good idea to choose an audio-guide. Since many people are expected to visit this excellent exhibition, I would recommend heading there in the morning. Besides learning more about Rodin and his art, you will find information on the history behind many of his works as well as his influence on other artists.

Home of the exhibition: Paris’s stunning Grand Palais (credit: Getty Images)

You may have heard of the sculptress Camille Claudel. This amazing woman met Rodin in 1882. He was 42, she was 18. Together with other young female artists, she was practicing her art under the direction of sculptor Alfred Boucher. As Boucher was going to be in Rome for several months, he asked Rodin to replace him. Soon, Rodin noticed how talented Camille was. In 1884, she started working for him. Eventually, the two artists became passionate lovers and rivals.

Untitled design-5 — Camille Claudel and a fellow sculptress in her studio

The exhibition will enable you to compare what Rodin and Camille Claudel made of the same model, an elderly lady. Rodin saw her as “Celle qui fût la belle Heaulmière”, named after a poem on lost youth and beauty. More originally, Camille Claudel created “Clotho”, a strange statue representing the youngest of the Three Fates in Greek mythology, who decide human destiny.

You will also be able to admire a mask of Camille Claudel, assembled with a reproduction of a hand of Pierre de Wissant. This mask highlights the simple beauty and frailty of Camille as a young woman.

Untitled design-7 — Same model: Celle qui fût la belle Heaulmière (Rodin) versus Clotho (Claudel)

To continue your day with Rodin, you could spend the afternoon at Musée Rodin (77 rue de Varenne). The museum is in a mansion known as Hôtel Biron, and surrounded by a large and pleasant garden, right in the middle of Paris.

You can enhance your visit of the museum and of the garden with an excellent audio-guide. It will give you additional information on Rodin’s masterpieces. One room of the museum is dedicated to Camille Claudel. There, the outstanding originality and talent of this artist is made obvious.

However, the end of Camille’s life was tragic. After years of passionate love, Rodin and Camille Claudel parted. Camille wanted Rodin to marry her, but he seemed unable to separate from Rose Beuret, a seamstress he had met during his youth. Rodin tried to help Camille and boost her career, but she grew suspicious of him. She would refer to him as “la fouine”, the snoop. Gradually, Camille became so isolated and hard to deal with that after her father’s death, her family decided to have her locked in a mental institution. She remained there until her death in 1943. During the 30 long years of her seclusion, her mother and her sister never visited her. Her brother, Paul Claudel, who had become a well-known writer, visited her on 13 occasions.

Untitled design-3 — Scenic grounds: the setting of Musée Rodin

By the time Camille was put in a mental institution, Rodin was an old man. Apart from sending her money, he was not able to give much support. Rodin had many mistresses and never parted from Rose Beuret. However, Camille Claudel had a special place in his heart. When he planned Musée Rodin, he included an exhibition space for Camille’s works. In so doing, Rodin made the link between his work and the work of his unfortunate love unforgettable.

Paris And Piaf: A Match Made In Heaven

Here’s a test: close your eyes and think of Paris. Now, what do you hear? Many will hear some kind of music, often involving an accordion. This is probably the result of watching numerous films where a scene set in Paris is heralded by some romantic music. Or maybe you’ll hear a powerful voice singing “La Vie en Rose” or “Non, rien de rien”? That is Edith Piaf, the wonderful Parisian. In this case, you must be a true fan.

Edith, whose real name was Édith Giovanna Gassion, had such an incredible life that one might think she is a fictional character. Born in Paris in December 1915, her mother was a café and street singer, her father a street acrobatic performer. Her mother left her with her maternal grandmother, who did not take proper care of her. Later, her father took Edith from that grandmother, and left her in Normandy, where his own mother ran a brothel. Edith was raised surrounded by prostitutes. Later, when she was nine, her father took her back to Paris, and she helped him collect money as he performed in the streets. One day, he asked her to sing to add to the show.

Edith-Piaf-une-voix-qui-vibre-toujours — Pensive Piaf (credit: Stafford Marilyn/SIPA)

At 15, she decided to leave her father. To survive, she took odd jobs and sang in the streets with a friend, until she was discovered in 1936 by a cabaret owner. He asked her to sing in his cabaret and that was the beginning of her career, which ended all too soon, in 1963. She died, exhausted by a life of tragedies and triumphs, abuse of alcohol and pain-killers for her polyarthritis – but happily married to her last love, Theo Sarapo, who was 20 years her junior.

Should you be an Edith Piaf fan, you could enhance your stay in Paris with a tour of some locations. Would you like to visit one of the apartments where Edith lived early in her career? One of her fans has transformed it into a small private museum dedicated to her, Le Musée Édith Piaf (5 rue Crespin-du-Gast). Here, you will be able to see one of the little black dresses she wore onstage and many objects that belonged to her. Remember to make an appointment by calling the number 01 43 55 52 72.

Untitled design-4 — An insight into Edith Piaf’s mind (credit: Getty Images)

After this, why not visit the places where she sang, that are still open to the public?

Bobino (14-20, rue de la Gaîté) hosts concerts, one-man shows and musicals. Piaf sang there in the late 1930s. It is also just a small walk away from our Tuilerie Parc residence.

Here’s an excellent reason for spending an evening at the Moulin Rouge (82 boulevard Clichy) and enjoying their slightly “risqué” shows: Edith Piaf sang there in the spring of 1944.

It is thanks to her that the music hall L’Olympia (28 boulevard des Capucines) still exists. Bruno Coquatrix was its manager in the early 1960s. When he realised it was going bankrupt, he asked his friend Edith Piaf to help him out of his predicament. At the time, her health was in decline, but she could not resist the challenge. Besides, she wanted to introduce her new song “Non, rien de rien” to the public. As her first 30 performances were a triumph, she went on, despite her increasing frailty. At the end of Piaf’s 90 performancess, the financial situation of L’Olympia was no longer a problem. Nowadays, a wide variety of singers and groups perform at the venue. If you’re staying at our Michodière residence, it is worth the 10 minute walk.

p48piafoutsideAFP_1 — Crowds gather for Edith Piaf outside L’Olympia (credit: Getty Hulton Archive)

Have you ever visited Père Lachaise cemetery (16 rue du Repos)? It is an extraordinary, beautiful place, where many rich and famous Parisians are buried. Edith Piaf is one of them, and you could finish your pilgrimage with a walk through Père Lachaise to visit her tomb.

Edith Piaf loved Paris and sang various songs about the French capital. She hasn’t been forgotten by Parisians yet, and many can still sing a few of her songs.

Food February: A Vegetarian In Paris

Vegetarian? Planning on going to Paris soon ? Oh, là, là ! Be prepared, vegetarians are not that common in France. As a matter of fact, only about 3 percent of the population of France is vegetarian, and vegans are even rarer. This may sound barbaric to some but, in France, only a few restaurants announce that they offer a vegetarian menu. And beware, there are horror stories about vegetarian menus being a mix of vegetables fresh out of a tin with a few leaves of lettuce!

However, you don’t have to starve in Paris . You can still go to most restaurants. Here are a few suggestions:

If you are brave enough to try your French over the phone, why not call the restaurants you are interested in and ask what they suggest for vegetarians? For example, at the trendy trattoria ‘Daroco’ (6 Rue Vivienne), only a few minutes away from the Louvre museum, you could have fresh pasta with gorgonzola cheese or linguini with truffle.

DAROCO — Daroco’s trendy interior (credit: Le Figaro)

For those who don’t dare try the phone-calling experience, be aware that many restaurants have a website, and you can often examine their menu before even stepping outside. Let’s try the very French ‘Bistrot des Vosges’ (31 Boulevard Beaumarchais), close to the beautiful Place des Vosges. One of the first items on their menu (‘la carte’) is a vegetarian or vegan salad. You could also try their Galette au Chèvre, a buckwheat pancake with goat cheese, or their Omelette des Burons, an omelette with Buron cheese and potatoes. But sorry, they do use beef broth to make their tempting Soupe à l’Oignon.

Speaking of buckwheat pancakes, galettes de sarrasin are the main courses of Crêperie restaurants, where you can also have all sort of crêpes for dessert. You must take a look at the amazing décor of ‘Crêperie Josselin‘ ( 67 Rue du Montparnasse), near the Gare Montparnasse. Some of their buckwheat pancakes are served with vegetables only. Should you want to try any other pancake on the menu, just ask the waiter to make a meatless version of it – that will not be a problem.

But you may be craving a more wholesome vegetarian or vegan meal. In this case, here are some places you should try:

You might want to know what ‘shrimp kebab (soy protein) with pineapple & lemon grass’ or ‘mushroom loaf with a blackberry-ginger sauce’ tastes like. If so, try ‘VegetHalles‘ (41 Rue des Bourdonnais), a restaurant dedicated to vegetarians and vegans. You can start by exploring their surprising menu online. It is advised to make a reservation as the restaurant is quite popular as well as being situated in the busy area of Les Halles.

brochette_crevettes — Soya protein kebab (credit: VegetHalles)

‘Tien Hiang‘(14 Rue Bichat) is a fairly original restaurant close to Canal Saint Martin. It specialises in Asian food that is also vegetarian and vegan. Whenever a dish traditionally requires meat, the meat is replaced with soya protein. Look at the pictures on their online menu, the result is truly amazing. Vegans, the only dish that is not for you is Marmite Tien Hiang, which uses cheese.

‘Le Grenier de Notre Dame‘(18 Rue de la Bûcherie), as you may have guessed, is only a few minutes away from Notre Dame Cathedral. It was the first vegetarian restaurant to open in Paris, in 1978. For decades, it has successfully persuaded Parisians to try vegetarian food. Unfortunately, they are currently closed for renovation. Good news is they are expected to re-open anytime around mid-March.

8050208803_445dcf746f — Fresh, local produce (credit: Le Grenier de Notre Dame)

Now, as the French would say, ‘Bon Appétit’!