About Montmartre… and wine

Do you know that it’s possible to sip on the fine wine made of grapes grown in a Parisian vineyard? Not many people are aware of this oddity despite that there are five vineyards in the French capital. If you’re going to be in Paris between October 11th and 15th, you may consider going to Montmartre to join in the celebration of its 84th wine festival. Here is some information about this unique event:

Clos-Montmartre-2008-e1347574841101

One of Montmartre’s vineyards, which is called “Clos Montmartre”, has a very unusual history: Montmartre used to be a hill outside of Paris, and for many centuries it was partly covered with vineyards. Unfortunately, by the beginning of the 20th century, the vineyards were gone and had been replaced by houses and buildings. In 1933, the City of Paris decided to have some constructions built on the wasteland it owned at the corner of rue Saint-Vincent and rue des Saules. The plan was eventually abandoned due to the opposition of local residents. Instead, the association “Le Vieux Montmartre” was allowed to create a vineyard where the wasteland was. This was a true challenge as the land was facing the North and was unable to be exposed to enough sunshine, but somehow the vineyard survived and in 1934 the first “Fete des Vendanges” was organised there, and it has been celebrated every 2nd week of October ever since.

Photo-vigne-direction-Saule-sans-voiture-HD

This harvest festival is extremely famed and captivating. For a period of 5 days, Montmartre will be exceedingly flourishing owing to the concerts, special events, exhibitions, organised visits and even balls that are going to be held over there. One of the special events is “Parcours du Goût” which invites you to taste local food. Moreover, Portugal will be the honoured guest of this year and it will bring you specialties from 5 Portuguese regions. On Thursday, October 12th, you can immerse yourself in the traditional Portuguese singing (Fado concert) at the theatre “Les Trois Baudets”.  http://www.lestroisbaudets.com/spectacle/fetes-des-vendanges-lumieres-et-vins-du-portugal/

Traditionally, the “ban des vendanges” is supposed to be the opening of a grape harvest. In Montmartre, the grapes are harvested in September, but there is still a “Ban des Vendanges” during the festivities. It will take place on Saturday, Oct.14th at 10 am at the vineyard. Unfortunately, you can only participate if you are one of the lucky ones who got invited. Otherwise, you still can appreciate the incredibly colourful parade that follows the “Ban des Vendanges” which starts at Clos Montmartre at 11.45 am and finishes at Place Jules Joffrin at 1 pm. You’ll be able to see the members of the République de Montmartre with their long black capes, black hats, and red scarves. Among them are ministers, ambassadors, and of course the president. The “Petits Poulbots” is another local tradition, a drummer group made of young Montmartre inhabitants. The people wearing long capes and holding a banner are “Confréries”, associations of people who have a common interest. Usually, there are also Batucada groups (Brazilian drums) and Bagads (Celtic music) groups from Britanny. This year, Tuna, a group of Portuguese students who pay for their studies by playing music, will participate the event as well. Majorettes (some sort of cheerleaders) and many other surprises are waiting for you!

XVMc5d5fe6a-6c48-11e5-9837-57d3a4f9da03

As for the wine “Clos Montmartre”, let’s be honest, it used to be criticised as “not worth drinking”. Thanks to some enologists, the vineyard experienced positive evolution afterwards. Nowadays, this Parisian wine is said to be “decent”. Clos Montmartre is a small vineyard of less than 2000 square meters, and its usual production varies from 1000 to 2000 bottles a year. The Syndicat d’Initiative of Montmartre has them in the store all year round, and you can also buy one at 50 euros a bottle from their site: https://www.comitedesfetesdemontmartre.com/?p=21.

A bit too expensive for a “decent” wine? Well, it’s a good deed too, since the Syndicat d’Initiative allocates the money to their charitable projects…

The Arts In Barcelona: El Grec Festival

El Grec is a big part of Barcelona’s identity. In July, this festival transforms the warm summer nights, bringing to the city some of the best theatre, dance, music and circus acts. If you are in the Catalan capital at this time, don’t miss the opportunity to attend some of the performances.

This year, El Grec will take place the whole month of July. Although the programme is not yet complete, we know that the main theme will be that of the ‘Mediterranean’. Some highlights will include the flamenco dance ‘La Baila’ of choreographer Israel Galván (Teatre Grec, July 4-5) and the new play by Dimitris Papaionnou, which will be both experimental and meticulously arranged (Mercat de les Flors theatre, July 2-4). In fact, Papaionnou is well-known for designing the opening and closing ceremonies of the Athens Olympics back in 2004.

El grec Barcelona
Legend of flamenco: Israel Galvan (credit: lerocherdepalmer.fr)

The story

The festival started in 1976 when the Assembly of Actors and Directors of Catalunya decided to give a platform to the innovative and independent performing arts. A lot of these appeared right after the death of the Spanish dictator Franco and the restoration of democracy in Spain.

In 1979, Barcelona City Council became the organisers of the festival. This meant that international actors and directors started coming to Barcelona, alongside Catalans already playing at the festival.

Since then, some of the best theatre writers, directors and performers have come to play at El Grec. Dario Fo, Lindsay Kemp, Robert Lepage and many others have enjoyed the July nights in Barcelona. Some famous musicians have also graced its stages, like Caetano Veloso, Bob Dylan and Santana.

The venues 

Teatre Grec

This is the heart of the festival. The main performances and events take place at this venue built in 1929 by Ramon Reventós and Nicolau Maria Rubió I Tudurí. On July 8, Santiago Auserón will play some of his songs, accompanied by the stunning Barcelona Municipal Band. Not far from the Teatro Grec, you can stay in one of our luxury apartments, our Plaza Espana II residence.

Theater Grec Barcelona
Rocky backdrop and great acoustics: the Teatre Grec (credit: lameva.barcelona.cat)

Teatre Nacional de Catalunya

Opened in 1996 and designed by the famous Spanish architect Ricard Bofill, it us one of the most outstanding cultural facilities of Barcelona. The main building of this theatre takes is inspired by the Parthenon in Athens, with two halls (450 and 870 people can be seated in these theatres). Some of the main events take place here during the festival.

Teatre Lliure

Founded in 1976, its main stage is in the former Palau de l’Agricultura of Montjuïc. The main hall, Sala Fabià Puigserver, can seat more than 700 spectators. It is worth visiting it even if it is just for its beautiful exterior. The Teatre Lliure is also conveniently close to our beautiful Botadura residence.

Front-Teatre-Lliure-Barcelona.jpg
Teatre Lliure (credit: shbarcelona.com)

Auditori

This was opened in 1999. The venue has three halls: Sala 1 Pau Casals for 2.200 spectators, Sala 2 Oriol Martorell with 600 places, and Sala 3 Tete Montoliu with 400 places. Nowadays, some of the greatest orchestras of the world come to the Auditori. It also serves as the home of the Orquestra Simfònica of Barcelona, where the best upcoming conductors and orchestras are taught and perform.

Although main events and activities take place at all the venues mentioned above, a few shows of the El Grec are also hosted in other venues like the Teatre Romea, La Villarroel, Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona (CCCB), the Joan Miró Foundation and the CaixaForum art centre. In particularly, it’s worth noting that the Sala Beckett (in Poblenou) will host “Un tret al cap” (July 5-30), the much-anticipated new play of Pau Miró, one of the most popular Catalan theatre directors.

El Grec Barcelona festival
Playwright Pau Miro will present his latest work at the festival (credit: Xavier Solanas)

If you want to learn more about the festival as the full programme is announced, check out their website.

From ‘Teatro Canzone’ To Jazz: Milan’s Great Music

Relatively few Italian artists chose to perform in other languages which is why most of them remain unknown abroad. In reality, Italy’s music scene is incredibly wide and diverse. This is no big surprise when you consider the complex historical, artistic and linguistic background of the country, a country always open to cross-cultural influences. There’s much more to offer than first appears. The sweet-sounding Italian language even lends itself to more ‘hardcore’ genres such as metal and hip-hop, not to mention the booming indie scene.

As I have mentioned previously, Milan has grown into the hub of contemporary Italian culture. Thousands of people move here every year to study and work, the city is being blessed with a continuous rise in international tourism, and the local musical production largely reflects the city’s ‘rebirth’. Talent shows and contests, music festivals and live concerts are all important features of the Milanese scene.

Let’s venture into the studios, clubs and pubs, and onto the stages scattered all over Milan to take a closer look at Milan music.

Teatro-canzone: Milan onstage

In the early seventies, a typically Milanese form of art was created out of the fusion of music, poetry and the city’s bustling theatrical environment. I am talking about teatro-canzone. Major figures include Giorgio Gaber and Enzo Jannacci, often mentioned alongside eminent comedians, actors and playwriters, including the late Nobel Literature Prize Dario Fo.

Untitled design-3.png
Giorgio Gaber: teatro-canzone pioneer (credit: alchetron.com)

Teatro-canzone can have many styles: performers are known for their fun anecdotes as well as sophisticated monologues discussing politics, religion, or philosophy. However, the Milanese spirit – witty, wry and somewhat melancholic – remains the main feature of this genre. Though its pioneers have passed away, Milanese theatres make sure to keep the tradition alive. On May 3at 8.30 PM, Piccolo Teatro Grassi (via Rovello 2, right by via Dante) will host Milano per Gaber – Canzone e Teatro Canzone. During this event, Paolo Dal Bon, chairman of the Fondazione Gaber, will discuss the art of teatro canzone with the famous Italian songwriter Ivano Fossati. Tickets are very cheap, starting from 5 €, and can be purchased directly from the theatre’s website. Whilst very  interesting, it is advisable for attendees to be familiar with the Italian language. Recommended if you are staying in our Bandello Luxe residence nearby.

piccolo-stud.jpg
Piccolo: the hub of the genre in Milan (credit: passipermilano.com)

Modern Milan in Music

Over the last century, Milan has undergone many transformations. Wealthier and more cosmopolitan than Rome, the city has welcomed thousands of newcomers, initially from the southern and the north-eastern regions and then from abroad. Back in the day, ‘adopted’ Milanese and their children would often live in the outskirts and feel alienated from the rapid modernisation of the city. A good example of this is the famous ballad ‘Il ragazzo della via Gluck’ by Adriano Celentano (himself the child of a Southern family) about a narrator lamenting how his rural childhood residence has been taken over by the big city.

Decades later, Italian music has grown more familiar with foreign influences. Society has also changed, even though the contrast between the centre and the suburbs remains sharp. The Milanese hinterland is home to several artists of different genres. Hip-hop plays quite an important role, often breaking into the mainstream scene. Punk-rock and metal have also grown popular since the 1990s, thanks to a number of groups among which we can mention Afterhours and Lacuna Coil.

Of course, this does not mean that a more ‘vernacular’ musical tradition has disappeared. Theatre and cabaret have played a key role in shaping the Milanese music scene. An example of this is Elio e le Storie Tese, a one-of-a-kind group combining hilarious, sometimes nonsensical lyrics with interesting instrumental arrangements and themed videos. They rose to fame on the stage of the Zelig cabaret theatre and they are nothing short of legends to many Milanese and Italian people.

Elio-e-le-Storie-Tese-1150x748
Pride of Milan: the Elio e le Storie Tese group (credit: sorrisi.com)

Much like the rest of Milan, alternative culture moves at a fast pace. And music does not lag behind. Several important cultural centres have been opened or restored over the past few years, hosting interesting artistic exhibitions, workshops and performances while spreading the word of emerging Italian artists. A major alternative music event in the Milanese Spring is the Mi Ami festival, taking place on 25th-27th May in the eastern area of the city, at Parco dell’Idroscalo (a reservoir area) and at Magnolia, one of the major ARCI clubs in the city’s area. Jazz and world music is also flourishing in Milan: Blue Note (via P. Borsieri, 37) is an interesting location for jazz amateurs in the city.

7628797972_bb25a9ff75_o
Great jazz music can be heard at Blue Note (bluenotemilano.com)

Last, but not least, the club and bar scene in Milan is unrivalled in Italy, making the city the country’s main hub for international artists.  Whether you are more into mainstream or alternative, electronic or acoustic music, or whether you prefer luxurious, hip or informal locations, the list of venues you might like to attend is virtually endless. The centre of town and the Porta Garibaldi – Corso Sempione area, near our Anta Moscova residence, hosts many high-end clubs and bars, whereas a more alternative ‘movida’ resonates around the Navigli area.

Iconic London Venues

London’s music scene is truly world class. With legendary venues and a host of musical giants lined up for the coming months, the city promises a spectacular show for every taste. Read on for the most noteworthy performances coming up in London this year, from Andre Rieu and Lang Lang to Celine Dion and Frankie Valli.

Royal Albert Hall

This historic, grade I listed South Kensington concert hall is one of London’s most treasured buildings. Its reputation for hosting the most illustrious concerts and events is preserved this year with a formidable array of orchestral and pop performances.

Though details and specific dates have not yet been released, it would be remiss to mention the Royal Albert Hall without also discussing the annual Proms concerts. While the Last Night of the Proms is the must see event at the Royal Albert Hall, the Proms in the Park is a fantastic open-air alternative held on the same day. Set in Hyde Park, it combines phenomenal performances with a beautiful outdoor setting. Make sure to check the programme when it’s announced on 20th April.

iconic venue in London England
Hub of illustrious concerts: the RAH

Barbican 

Just north of the City of London sits the Barbican, Europe’s largest multi-arts venue and home to both the London Symphony Orchestra and the BBC Symphony Orchestra. Expect superlative classical and contemporary shows (with crystal-clear acoustics) from local and visiting orchestras and performers alike.

Classical concert in London
Classical concert heaven: the Barbican

O2 Arena

Everything about the O2 Arena is on an immense scale – it’s only natural that the world’s busiest music arena and the world’s largest building by floor space is also host to some of the biggest names in music. In 2017, expect knockout shows from the following:

O2 arena famous place for concerts
Big and bold: the O2 arena

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club

The list of those who’ve graced the stage at Ronnie Scott’s since its 1959 opening reads like a who’s who of jazz: Miles Davis, Ella Fitzgerald, Chet Baker and Sarah Vaughan to name a few. London’s premier jazz venue, the Soho basement club continues to attract a steady stream of talent. Its main shows frequently sell out, so book early if you’re planning a trip.

Iconic place in London
Well-established scene (credit: whatsoninlondon.co.uk)

The SSE Arena, Wembley

Not to be confused with Wembley Stadium, the SSE (formerly Wembley Arena) is an icon in its own right and a bastion of London’s live music scene. This year the north-west London venue boasts some highly-celebrated performers – between them, Hans Zimmer and Bob Dylan have 17 Grammy awards, two Academy Awards and the Nobel Prize for Literature.

Music in London auditory
The SSE Wembley Arena