The Arts In Barcelona: El Grec Festival

El Grec is a big part of Barcelona’s identity. In July, this festival transforms the warm summer nights, bringing to the city some of the best theatre, dance, music and circus acts. If you are in the Catalan capital at this time, don’t miss the opportunity to attend some of the performances.

This year, El Grec will take place the whole month of July. Although the programme is not yet complete, we know that the main theme will be that of the ‘Mediterranean’. Some highlights will include the flamenco dance ‘La Baila’ of choreographer Israel Galván (Teatre Grec, July 4-5) and the new play by Dimitris Papaionnou, which will be both experimental and meticulously arranged (Mercat de les Flors theatre, July 2-4). In fact, Papaionnou is well-known for designing the opening and closing ceremonies of the Athens Olympics back in 2004.

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Legend of flamenco: Israel Galvan (credit: lerocherdepalmer.fr)

The story

The festival started in 1976 when the Assembly of Actors and Directors of Catalunya decided to give a platform to the innovative and independent performing arts. A lot of these appeared right after the death of the Spanish dictator Franco and the restoration of democracy in Spain.

In 1979, Barcelona City Council became the organisers of the festival. This meant that international actors and directors started coming to Barcelona, alongside Catalans already playing at the festival.

Since then, some of the best theatre writers, directors and performers have come to play at El Grec. Dario Fo, Lindsay Kemp, Robert Lepage and many others have enjoyed the July nights in Barcelona. Some famous musicians have also graced its stages, like Caetano Veloso, Bob Dylan and Santana.

The venues 

Teatre Grec

This is the heart of the festival. The main performances and events take place at this venue built in 1929 by Ramon Reventós and Nicolau Maria Rubió I Tudurí. On July 8, Santiago Auserón will play some of his songs, accompanied by the stunning Barcelona Municipal Band. Not far from the Teatro Grec, you can stay in one of our luxury apartments, our Plaza Espana II residence.

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Rocky backdrop and great acoustics: the Teatre Grec (credit: lameva.barcelona.cat)

Teatre Nacional de Catalunya

Opened in 1996 and designed by the famous Spanish architect Ricard Bofill, it us one of the most outstanding cultural facilities of Barcelona. The main building of this theatre takes is inspired by the Parthenon in Athens, with two halls (450 and 870 people can be seated in these theatres). Some of the main events take place here during the festival.

Teatre Lliure

Founded in 1976, its main stage is in the former Palau de l’Agricultura of Montjuïc. The main hall, Sala Fabià Puigserver, can seat more than 700 spectators. It is worth visiting it even if it is just for its beautiful exterior. The Teatre Lliure is also conveniently close to our beautiful Botadura residence.

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Teatre Lliure (credit: shbarcelona.com)

Auditori

This was opened in 1999. The venue has three halls: Sala 1 Pau Casals for 2.200 spectators, Sala 2 Oriol Martorell with 600 places, and Sala 3 Tete Montoliu with 400 places. Nowadays, some of the greatest orchestras of the world come to the Auditori. It also serves as the home of the Orquestra Simfònica of Barcelona, where the best upcoming conductors and orchestras are taught and perform.

Although main events and activities take place at all the venues mentioned above, a few shows of the El Grec are also hosted in other venues like the Teatre Romea, La Villarroel, Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona (CCCB), the Joan Miró Foundation and the CaixaForum art centre. In particularly, it’s worth noting that the Sala Beckett (in Poblenou) will host “Un tret al cap” (July 5-30), the much-anticipated new play of Pau Miró, one of the most popular Catalan theatre directors.

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Playwright Pau Miro will present his latest work at the festival (credit: Xavier Solanas)

If you want to learn more about the festival as the full programme is announced, check out their website.

Paris: The Must-See Ballets This Season

Paris is a city of many wonders and its inspiring artistic tradition is a big reason for its magic. A visit to Paris would not be complete without going to see a show at one of the wonderful stages the city has to offer, the most famed being that of the Palais Garnier, a majestic building and source of inspiration for The Phantom of the Opera. We are approaching the end of  ballet’s summer-spring season, but Opéra de Paris still has plenty of contemporary dance and classical ballets to suit your tastes:

À Bras-le-Corps – Dimitri Chamblas, Boris Charmatz

Palais Garnier, March 16 – May 2

Dimitri Chamblas and Boris Charmatz became friends during their studies at the Paris Opera Ballet School. They co-authored À Bras-le-Corps in 1993. Their work has been described as ground-breaking for French dance. With music by Niccolò Paganini, the ballet was first shown in a type of boxing-ring and is still performed by the two choreographers, who have let the ballet evolve with them.

Get tickets here.

Merce Cunningham / William Forsythe

Palais Garnier, April 14 – May 13

You will also have the chance to see a French take on the American style through three works: one choreographed by Merce Cunningham and two by William Forsythe, united as one representation lasting just under two hours. Merce Cunningham’s Walkaround Time (1968) is a modern ballet, set to David Behrman’s music. In Paris, the sets are inspired by the works of surrealist Marcel Duchamps. On his side, William Forsythe explores the limit of classical ballet with his two offerings created in the 1990s, while Trio contains Beethoven’s composition.

Get tickets here.

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Rehearsals for the varied performance (credit: Ann Ray / OnP)

Robbins / Balanchine/ Cherkaoui, Jalet

Palais Garnier, May 2 – May 27

These are three symphonic ballets set to the music of Maurice Ravel: inspired by  different music styles, namely valse, jazz and boléro. Le Boléro – the third ballet performed for this consecrated show, is considered one of his most famous works, which he composed on a recommendation from his friend Ida Rubinstein and then dedicated to her. An interesting fact about this piece is that Ravel was rather dissatisfied with the international success the ballet received and felt that the piece was « empty of music ».

Get tickets here.

La Sylphide – Pierre Lacotte

Palais Garnier, June 1 – June 16

La Sylphide was created in 1832 by Filippo Taglioni at the Opéra de Paris, with music by Jean Scheitzhoeffer. Filippo Taglioni created this ballet especially for his daughter, Marie Taglioni, who danced in the first representation of it with what some say was the first tutu! He took into account his daughter’s peculiar body with her long legs and arms, large hands and ill-formed toes of the same length, allowing her exceptional balance on her tips. The ballet received immediate praise in 1832, but was forgotten by the end of the century. Pierre Lacotte revived La Sylphide for the Paris Opera Ballet in 1972, and it is this version you can attend in June.

Get tickets here.

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A previous representation of La Sylphide in Paris (credit: Ann Ray / OnP)

Drumming Live – Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker’s

Opéra Bastille, July 1 – July 15

Head to a representation of Drumming Live this season at the Opéra Bastille to see what is considered to be the Belgian choreograph Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker’s best work. This contemporary dance piece’s musical score was created by the minimalist New York composer Steve Reich. Performed several times since its creation in 1998, this original and quite abstract ballet follows particular music with 12 dancers bathed in a fluorescent orange light.

Get tickets here.

By the way, if you can’t get tickets for your preferred date, try La Bourse aux Billets for additional sales: http://boursechange.operadeparis.fr/.

Bon ballet!

 

Paris And Piaf: A Match Made In Heaven

Here’s a test: close your eyes and think of Paris. Now, what do you hear? Many will hear some kind of music, often involving an accordion. This is probably the result of watching numerous films where a scene set in Paris is heralded by some romantic music. Or maybe you’ll hear a powerful voice singing “La Vie en Rose” or “Non, rien de rien”? That is Edith Piaf, the wonderful Parisian. In this case, you must be a true fan.

Edith, whose real name was Édith Giovanna Gassion, had such an incredible life that one might think she is a fictional character. Born in Paris in December 1915, her mother was a café and street singer, her father a street acrobatic performer. Her mother left her with her maternal grandmother, who did not take proper care of her. Later, her father took Edith from that grandmother, and left her in Normandy, where his own mother ran a brothel. Edith was raised surrounded by prostitutes. Later, when she was nine, her father took her back to Paris, and she helped him collect money as he performed in the streets. One day, he asked her to sing to add to the show.

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Pensive Piaf (credit: Stafford Marilyn/SIPA)

At 15, she decided to leave her father. To survive, she took odd jobs and sang in the streets with a friend, until she was discovered in 1936 by a cabaret owner. He asked her to sing in his cabaret and that was the beginning of her career, which ended all too soon, in 1963. She died, exhausted by a life of tragedies and triumphs, abuse of alcohol and pain-killers for her polyarthritis – but happily married to her last love, Theo Sarapo, who was 20 years her junior.

Should you be an Edith Piaf fan, you could enhance your stay in Paris with a tour of some locations. Would you like to visit one of the apartments where Edith lived early in her career? One of her fans has transformed it into a small private museum dedicated to her, Le Musée Édith Piaf (5 rue Crespin-du-Gast). Here, you will be able to see one of the little black dresses she wore onstage and many objects that belonged to her. Remember to make an appointment by calling the number 01 43 55 52 72.

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An insight into Edith Piaf’s mind (credit: Getty Images)

After this, why not visit the places where she sang, that are still open to the public?

Bobino (14-20, rue de la Gaîté) hosts concerts, one-man shows and musicals. Piaf sang there in the late 1930s. It is also just a small walk away from our Tuilerie Parc residence.

Here’s an excellent reason for spending an evening at the Moulin Rouge (82 boulevard Clichy) and enjoying their slightly “risqué” shows: Edith Piaf sang there in the spring of 1944.

It is thanks to her that the music hall L’Olympia  (28 boulevard des Capucines) still exists. Bruno Coquatrix was its manager in the early 1960s. When he realised it was going bankrupt, he asked his friend Edith Piaf to help him out of his predicament. At the time, her health was in decline, but she could not resist the challenge. Besides, she wanted to introduce her new song “Non, rien de rien” to the public. As her first 30 performances were a triumph, she went on, despite her increasing frailty. At the end of Piaf’s 90 performancess, the financial situation of L’Olympia was no longer a problem. Nowadays, a wide variety of singers and groups perform at the venue. If you’re staying at our Michodière residence, it is worth the 10 minute walk.

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Crowds gather for Edith Piaf outside L’Olympia (credit: Getty Hulton Archive)

Have you ever visited Père Lachaise cemetery (16 rue du Repos)? It is an extraordinary, beautiful place, where many rich and famous Parisians are buried. Edith Piaf is one of them, and you could finish your pilgrimage with a walk through Père Lachaise to visit her tomb.

Edith Piaf loved Paris and sang various songs about the French capital. She hasn’t been forgotten by Parisians yet, and many can still sing a few of her songs.

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Edith Piaf continues to inspire art in Paris today (credit: francedailyphoto.com)

 

Listen Up, London: Must-See Music Exhibitions

Listen Up! London is a vibrant city full of cultural events. Here we tell you the most important events you can’t miss this year.

The Pink Floyd Exhibition: Their Mortal Remains

V&A Museum, 13th May – 1st Oct 2017

This year sees the 50-year anniversary of the release of Pink Floyd’s debut single, ‘Arnold Layne’. To mark the occasion, the V&A Museum is unveiling the first major international retrospective of one of the most successful and influential bands of all time: ‘The Pink Floyd Exhibition: Their Mortal Remains’.

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Find out about the band’s artistic history (credit: Pink Floyd Exhibition)

The show promises an immersive and theatrical journey that will channel the band’s reputation for pioneering sonic and visual experimentation. Featuring 350 artefacts from handwritten lyrics to stage props, the exhibit will chart Pink Floyd’s inimitable music, staging and design from the 1960s to the present day in spectacular and multi-sensory style.

The Spencer Collection: A Musical Banquet, 3rd Jan 2017 – 31st Mar 2018

And Hands, 28th Feb 2017 – 31st May 2017

Royal Academy of Music

The eminent permanent collection of the Royal Academy of Music Museum is accompanied this year by two rather different temporary displays. The first, ‘A Musical Banquet’ showcases pieces from Robert Spencer’s collection of early music instruments, manuscripts, printed music and curiosities. With items spanning 500 years, the exhibition offers a rich and beautiful array of artefacts to intrigue and delight music enthusiasts, including guitar songs printed on playing cards and fine 16th century guitars and lutes.

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Top-notch exhibition space (credit: Royal Academy of Music)

The second, ‘Hands’, is a little less conventional for a music exhibition. It’s dedicated to musician’s hands, the most powerful tool in the arsenal of composers and performers alike. The exhibition seeks to question what hands might say about musicians by means of casts and photographs and includes specimens from such venerable composers as Chopin, Mendelssohn and Paganini.

The Vault

Hard Rock Café 

London’s only rock ‘n’ roll museum and part of the flagship Hard Rock Café, The Vault is quite literally what it says on the tin: a cosy basement room inside an old Coutts Bank, complete with hefty steel door. The small permanent exhibition of rock ‘n’ roll treasures includes clothing and personal items (Madonna’s Jean Paul Gauthier Bustier, John Lennon’s army shirt) but pride of place is the collection of guitars and other instruments (owned by the likes of Hendrix, Dylan, Bowie and Cobain).

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Head downstairs for more surprises (credit: Mail Experiences)

Entry is free and includes a guided tour from a member of staff. The Vault is accessed through the Hard Rock Café’s gift shop across the road from the café itself.

Handel & Hendrix in London

Beyond sharing a staggering musical talent, George Frideric Handel and Jimi Hendrix have at least one other thing in common: both called the same street in Mayfair home, separated by a wall and 200 years of history. Today, 25 and 23 Brook Street are home to Handel House and the Hendrix Flat respectively – both featuring historically restored rooms that invite the public to step back in time and view the spaces as they would have been.

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Music history, side by side (credit: Hendrix and Handel Museum)

Handel House features four restored rooms complemented by a roster of temporary exhibitions around Handel’s life and times and by live music performances. The Handel House series explores music of the Baroque period across multiple programmes between now and April.

Opened just last year, the Hendrix Flat has the distinction of being the only one of his homes open to the public. As the setting for many jam sessions and hours of song writing, the flat provides a unique insight into the creative space of the celebrated and mythologised musician.

Abbey Road Crossing

The most famous musical landmark in London and probably the world, the zebra crossing outside Abbey Road studios was immortalised on the cover of The Beatles’ 1969 album Abbey Road. Today, it’s a pilgrimage site for fans of the Fab Four and anyone with an enthusiasm for pop culture. Check out the ‘crossing cam’ online for a glimpse of what to expect. Do remember that the nearby Abbey Road Studios are a working studio and unfortunately aren’t open to the general public.

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An Abbey Road outtake, Paul wears sandals (credit: Iain Macmillan)

Classical Music: Barcelona’s Finest Venues

In Barcelona, you can find music to suit every taste. But if you specifically love your classical music, there are three main venues that stand above the rest. Throughout the years, they have been visited by some of the best opera singers, orchestras, and conductors the world has to offer. Here is why you should visit them.

Liceu

The Gran Teatre del Liceu is an impressive establishment. Opened in 1847, its history is interesting and quite tumultuous.

In fact, the venue had to be rebuilt two times due to fire damage. The first one struck in 1861, requiring  some minor adjustments. One year later, The Gran Teatre was up and running again. The second fire came in 1994, caused by a spark that accidentally set light to a curtain during a routine repair. After that event, the theatre had to be rebuilt and it re-opened its doors only five years later, in 1999.

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Circle upon circle of stunning decor

There was a gap in performances too. During the Spanish Civil War, from 1936-39, operas and other plays were suspended in the theatre.

Aside from catastrophic events, there are of course moments of bliss. Liceu has seen the most famous opera singers in the world grace its stage, including the likes of Enrico Caruso, Luciano Pavarotti and Barcelona native, Montserrat Caballé. Operas of Catalan, Spanish and Italian composers have premiered within the famous walls. Several masterpieces have also been performed in this theatre, from composers Tchaikovsky, Wagner, Rossini, Verdi, Stravinsky, Dvořák, to name but a few.

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Catalan native Montserrat Caballé performed here many times (credit: Warner Classics)

Liceu is not only a place for classical music and opera, performers of other genres also make use of its beautiful stages, profound acoustics and richly decorated halls that seat up to 2292 guests. A great example of this is Icelandic singer, Björk, who famously performed here in 2001.

These days, you can enjoy contemporary and classical ballet, classical operas and famous orchestras from all over the world. This March, you can enjoy Giuseppe Verdi’s Rigoletto, so remember to book tickets in advance. It is worth checking the schedule of upcoming events as there is a lot coming up this season.

Palau de la Música

Opened in 1908, the Palau de la Música also has a rich history. It is ideal if you’re staying in our Plaza Catalunya residence nearbyToday, more than half a million people annually attend Palau’s musical events, ranging from symphonic and chamber music to jazz.

In 1997, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is not surprising when you see it in person. Its design is typical of Catalan modernism, when curves predominate over straight lines, dynamic shapes are preferred over statics forms, and rich decoration, that emphasises floral and other organic motifs, is used extensively.

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A seat with a view

Its concert hall, seating about 2 200 people, is considered one of the most beautiful in the world. It is the only auditorium in Europe that is illuminated during daylight hours entirely by natural light.

In its beginning, the Palau de la Música paid special attention to promoting local composers and artists, such as Enric Granados and the orchestra of Pau Casals. Many of the best soloists, orchestras and conductors have visited this venue, such as Emil Sauer, Maurizio Pollini, the Berliner Philharmoniker with Richard Strauss, amongst others.

Popular singers and bands, like Norah Jones and Juanes, have performed at the Palau. Some events in March are include renditions of The Fourth by Tchaikovsky and Gran Gala de Flamenco. Check the following link to know what’s going on at the venue.

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Look up to this: the stunning ceiling in the Palau

Auditori

Not far from our Sagrada Familia Residence, you will find the newest of the three major venues, opened in 1999. Architecturally, it is also the most modern.

Nowadays, some of the greatest orchestras of the world come to the Auditori. It also serves as the home of the Orquestra Simfònica de Barcelona, where the new great conductors and orchestras of our century are being taught. On average, they perform 75 concerts a season. The venue has 3 halls (Sala 1 Pau Casals for 2.200 spectators; Sala 2 Oriol Martorell with 600 places; and Sala 3 Tete Montoliu with 400 places).

Don’t miss the string quartets this spring.  The programme for the upcoming season has something for every classical music fans and looks very impressive.

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Modern setting: Barcelona’s Auditori

Music In Milan: A Night At The Opera

Milan prides itself on its diverse music scene, touching on old and modern genres alike. Whilst several Italian artists and popular songs are well-known abroad, it may seem that most international music is not quite as appreciated in the country. This is a misleading belief as Milan has seen a ‘cultural rebirth’ over the last few years, holding a leading position amongst European destinations. Milan is connected to the rest of the world and is constantly welcoming creative sparks. If you’re a live music fan planning to visit, Milan is the place to be.

And there is no better place to start than the opera. Translated as ‘product of work’, opera finds its home in Italy. I want to focus this Music March segment on this unique and complex musical and theatrical genre. Though I cannot provide an intensive course of lyrical Italian (which can be challenging even to native Italian opera fans), I do have some vital information to give you before you head to your night out!

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Grand interior (credit: architecturaldigest.com)

Verdi, Bellini, Puccini, Donizetti… the list of Italian opera composers is long. No wonder, when you consider that melodrama was born in this country even before the state of Italy itself. While opera rose to popularity in Rome and Venice, the Milanese Teatro alla Scala (founded in 1778) is often regarded as the most important opera theatre in Italy. The opening of the lyrical season, taking place on 7th December (the day dedicated to Saint Ambrose, the local patron saint) is one of the country’s most important and prestigious events and is regularly attended by many celebrities.

Traditionally, the theatre’s programme alternates between melodramas, ballets, and classical music concerts. This year’s lyrical season  – running from early March to late June – features Verdi’s La Traviata, Wagner’s Die Meistersinger von Nürnberg (The Master-Singers of Nuremberg), Donizetti’s Anna Bolena, Rossini’s La Gazza Ladra (The Thieving Magpie), Mozart’s Don Giovanni and Die Entführung aus dem Serail (Il Serraglio) and Puccini’s La Bohème.

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La Scala in the 19th century

While most of these operas were composed in Italian, Teatro alla Scala’s programme also features works in other languages, usually German or French. In operatic works, it was customary for the music and the lyrics to be written by different people, the composer often getting the most recognition. Each work’s language is typically related to the nationality of the ‘librettist’, the writer. This explains why several of the Austrian Mozart’s operas were written in Italian. In fact, Italy has given birth to many prominent libretto writers, such as Pietro Metastasio, Lorenzo Da Ponte and Arrigo Boito. The authors were often requested to work abroad, in places like Paris or Vienna, other major ‘opera capitals’. Sometimes, a libretto could be written prior to even being given the music!

Needless to say, opera has still got its own superstars, and the fact that most works are sung in Italian, German and French does not prevent international singers from becoming experts in their field. Since most opera works were written some centuries ago, even a fluent speaker may have a hard time understanding all of the lyrics, partly because the voices do not follow a natural intonation.

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A rare photo of Giuseppe Verdi in front of La Scala, Milan 1890.

Therefore, whether you know Italian well or not, every opera attendee is highly recommended to read a synopsis of the show beforehand. Unlike prose, it is best to have a good idea what the opera is about from the start, to avoid getting lost in the music, the arias, and the plot. There is no need to read the complete libretto beforehand as most opera theatres now provide LCD screens displaying the lyrics as they are sung onstage. Purists may frown upon this innovation but it has definitely made things simpler!

Language aside, opera is an intrinsically diverse genre, reflecting a range of traditions in both music and drama. Similarly to ballet, it tends to stick to tradition and strict formal rules with the director’s style often impacting the final performance. Furthermore, it is not unheard of for opera to be reinterpreted in more ‘experimental’ ways. After all, opera has recently lost part of its stereotypical aloofness, becoming more accessible and attracting a wider audience, even offering opera courses to amateurs. Nonetheless, we are still talking about the most elegant theatre in the capital of Italian fashion. As such, it is best to dress up for the occasion: few forms of art are as appearance-conscious as opera, and this is true both on-and off-stage.

One last thing – don’t forget to book your tickets! From locals to occasional visitors, every performance at Teatro alla Scala draws a wide audience, easily filling up all its 2030 seats. I recommend an advance booking at least one month prior to your arrival. You can make your reservation via the theatre’s official website, choosing the performance you want to attend and proceeding to the payment. Those who are planning a longer stay and/or are frequent attendees can opt for a season ticket, the price of which will vary according to the seat and the time of the year. Otherwise, you can buy your tickets in a selection of offices all across Italy. Don’t miss this unique opportunity to enjoy the Italian Opera!

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Inspired by the exterior of La Scala, my illustration of it

Iconic London Venues

London’s music scene is truly world class. With legendary venues and a host of musical giants lined up for the coming months, the city promises a spectacular show for every taste. Read on for the most noteworthy performances coming up in London this year, from Andre Rieu and Lang Lang to Celine Dion and Frankie Valli.

Royal Albert Hall

This historic, grade I listed South Kensington concert hall is one of London’s most treasured buildings. Its reputation for hosting the most illustrious concerts and events is preserved this year with a formidable array of orchestral and pop performances.

Though details and specific dates have not yet been released, it would be remiss to mention the Royal Albert Hall without also discussing the annual Proms concerts. While the Last Night of the Proms is the must see event at the Royal Albert Hall, the Proms in the Park is a fantastic open-air alternative held on the same day. Set in Hyde Park, it combines phenomenal performances with a beautiful outdoor setting. Make sure to check the programme when it’s announced on 20th April.

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Hub of illustrious concerts: the RAH

Barbican 

Just north of the City of London sits the Barbican, Europe’s largest multi-arts venue and home to both the London Symphony Orchestra and the BBC Symphony Orchestra. Expect superlative classical and contemporary shows (with crystal-clear acoustics) from local and visiting orchestras and performers alike.

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Classical concert heaven: the Barbican

O2 Arena

Everything about the O2 Arena is on an immense scale – it’s only natural that the world’s busiest music arena and the world’s largest building by floor space is also host to some of the biggest names in music. In 2017, expect knockout shows from the following:

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Big and bold: the O2 arena

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club

The list of those who’ve graced the stage at Ronnie Scott’s since its 1959 opening reads like a who’s who of jazz: Miles Davis, Ella Fitzgerald, Chet Baker and Sarah Vaughan to name a few. London’s premier jazz venue, the Soho basement club continues to attract a steady stream of talent. Its main shows frequently sell out, so book early if you’re planning a trip.

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Well-established scene (credit: whatsoninlondon.co.uk)

The SSE Arena, Wembley

Not to be confused with Wembley Stadium, the SSE (formerly Wembley Arena) is an icon in its own right and a bastion of London’s live music scene. This year the north-west London venue boasts some highly-celebrated performers – between them, Hans Zimmer and Bob Dylan have 17 Grammy awards, two Academy Awards and the Nobel Prize for Literature.

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The SSE Wembley Arena

Food February: A Vegetarian In Paris

Vegetarian? Planning on going to Paris soon ? Oh, là, là ! Be prepared, vegetarians are not that common in France. As a matter of fact, only about 3 percent of the population of France is vegetarian, and vegans are even rarer. This may sound barbaric to some but, in France, only a few restaurants announce that they offer a vegetarian menu. And beware, there are horror stories about vegetarian menus being a mix of vegetables fresh out of a tin with a few leaves of lettuce!

However, you don’t have to starve in Paris . You can still go to most restaurants. Here are a few suggestions:

If you are brave enough to try your French over the phone, why not call the restaurants you are interested in and ask what they suggest for vegetarians? For example, at the trendy trattoria ‘Daroco’ (6 Rue Vivienne), only a few minutes away from the Louvre museum, you could have fresh pasta with gorgonzola cheese or linguini with truffle.

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Daroco’s trendy interior (credit: Le Figaro)

For those who don’t dare try the phone-calling experience, be aware that many restaurants have a website, and you can often examine their menu before even stepping outside. Let’s try the very French ‘Bistrot des Vosges’ (31 Boulevard Beaumarchais), close to the beautiful Place des Vosges. One of the first items on their menu (‘la carte’) is a vegetarian or vegan salad. You could also try their Galette au Chèvre, a buckwheat pancake with goat cheese, or their Omelette des Burons, an omelette with Buron cheese and potatoes. But sorry, they do use beef broth to make their tempting Soupe à l’Oignon.

Speaking of buckwheat pancakes, galettes de sarrasin are the main courses of Crêperie restaurants, where you can also have all sort of crêpes for dessert. You must take a look at the amazing décor of ‘Crêperie Josselin‘ ( 67 Rue du Montparnasse), near the Gare Montparnasse. Some of their buckwheat pancakes are served with vegetables only. Should you want to try any other pancake on the menu, just ask the waiter to make a meatless version of it – that will not be a problem.

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Fancy a French crêpe?

But you may be craving a more wholesome vegetarian or vegan meal. In this case, here are some places you should try:

You might want to know what ‘shrimp kebab (soy protein) with pineapple & lemon grass’ or ‘mushroom loaf with a blackberry-ginger sauce’ tastes like. If so, try ‘VegetHalles‘ (41 Rue des Bourdonnais), a restaurant dedicated to vegetarians and vegans. You can start by exploring their surprising menu online. It is advised to make a reservation as the restaurant is quite popular as well as being situated in the busy area of Les Halles.

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Soya protein kebab (credit: VegetHalles)

Tien Hiang‘(14 Rue Bichat) is a fairly original restaurant close to Canal Saint Martin. It specialises in Asian food that is also vegetarian and vegan. Whenever a dish traditionally requires meat, the meat is replaced with soya protein. Look at the pictures on their online menu, the result is truly amazing. Vegans, the only dish that is not for you is Marmite Tien Hiang, which uses cheese.

Le Grenier de Notre Dame‘(18 Rue de la Bûcherie), as you may have guessed, is only a few minutes away from Notre Dame Cathedral. It was the first vegetarian restaurant to open in Paris, in 1978. For decades, it has successfully persuaded Parisians to try vegetarian food. Unfortunately, they are currently closed for renovation. Good news is they are expected to re-open anytime around mid-March.

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Fresh, local produce (credit: Le Grenier de Notre Dame)

Now, as the French would say, ‘Bon Appétit’!

Love At First Bite: A Food Trip Around Paris

Escargots, steak tartare, soupe à l’oignon, choucroute, coq au vin, pâté en croûte, cassoulet, boeuf bourguignon … Have I got your attention? These mouth-watering dishes are on the menus of many Parisian brasseries and bistrots and might be the reason why visitors fall in love with the French capital at first bite.

Most of our apartments are located in Paris’s most prestigious and beautiful areas: the Marais, the 2nd Arrondissement, and the Latin Quarter. Paris is not only a perfect destination to discover the most skilled fashion designers, is also one of the  culinary meccas in the world. Let me tell you a bit about the history of these neighborhoods and the types of food you can find there.

Close-up on: Le Marais

It is home to the oldest covered market in the city, the Marché des Enfants Rouges, where fresh produce and different national cuisines abound. Interestingly, the French word ‘marais’ means swamp, and this is exactly what the area was well before it became one of Paris’s most beautiful neighbourhoods.

The first inhabitants were Templars and they arrived at this former pasture land in the 9th century. A Templar’s tomb was even found during engineering works for the Parisian metro at the beginning of the 20th century! Fleeing high taxes, others came to join the Templars in the 14th century, giving the neighbourhood an economic boost. By 1605, the Marais became a Royal Quarter, when Henry IV constructed the Place des Vosges (formerly called the Royal Square). From then on, and until the end of the 17th century, rich families built ‘hôtels particuliers’, mansions, and even churches.

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Detail at Place des Vosges

The Jewish community appeared as soon as the 13th century. Today, many people come to the famous Rue des Rosiers, the emblematic street of the Jewish Quarter, to taste the best falafels in Paris.

Last time I was in the Marais, I fell upon a true gem called Miznon, in a street parallel to the Rue des Rosiers. Their traditional pita bread is imported from Jerusalem and re-heated on site. They also offer wonderfully steamed, then baked, vegetables that will make you reconsider your view on cauliflower. I ended up asking for the recipe! The Marais is one of the only neighbourhoods where the shops are open on Sundays (the French take this resting day very seriously), so it can get crowded on the weekends.

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Wholesome food (credit: EC/EH in Timeout)

Walking along the Rue des Rosiers, pay attention to the shop signs and names:  you will often see “Boulangerie” written on top of a clothes shop, in an effort to preserve the history of the place. Quite a surprising contrast!

Close-up on: The 2nd Arrondissement

The 2nd Arrondissement is organised around the old Parisian stock exchange (the Bourse) and is home to La Place des Victoires, one of the five royal squares of the city. It was once surrounded by three medieval walls. Due to the limited space available, there was no more room for new constructions by the end of the 18th century.  Since then, if you are looking to construct a new building, you need to knock one down first.

This arrondissement is also where you can find most of the Parisian “galleries marchandes”, the impressive 19th century commercial arcades. Back in the day, entrepreneurs built the first of these paved pedestrian passageways as Paris lacked decent streets and sidewalks, a hindrance for to their business.

The area is full of theatres and close to the Opera Garnier, which famously inspired Gaston Leroux’s The Phantom of the Opera. What’s more, you can find the shortest inhabited street of Paris in the 2nd arrondissement: it is only 5.75m long. Technically a couple of steps, the Rue des Degrés links the Rue de Cléry and the Rue Beauregard.

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I’ll meet you at the top: miniature street (soundlandscapes.wordpress)

The area also features 12 Rue Chabanais which, until 1946, stood as the most famous brothel of Paris. Many politicians and royals from all over Europe would often visit… The place was extremely luxurious and even had Toulouse-Lautrec paintings on its walls!

The Montorgueil Market, located at the centre of the quarter, is full of traditional products. Its village atmosphere makes you travel back in time and space. You can find local butchers, fishmongers, breadmakers, and all kinds of other foods here.

It is also the home of the ‘Baba au Rhum’, the rum baba, first sold in the oldest patisserie of Paris, founded in 1725. Go visit La Patisserie Stohrer in the Montorgueil Market to get a taste of this delicious cake. The shop is actually classified as a historical, grade I listed building.

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Famous delicacy ‘Baba au Rhum’ (credit: Patisserie Stohrer)

You can also book a table at Gérard Depardieu’s restaurant, La Fontaine Gaillon, one of many good eateries of the area. Why not taste his wine and tell us what you think?

Close-up on: The Latin Quarter

Until 1789, Latin was the language of teaching in this quarter, hence its name. The neighbourhood is still the home of many universities today, including France’s prestigious La Sorbonne (founded in 1253). The Sorbonne still has many beautiful, specialised libraries. Due to its high number of students, the quarter was also the hub of the events of May 1968.

In 52 BC, the Romans settled in the area, and certain vestiges of their time can be visited today, such as the roman baths. You can also see go visit the Pantheon, the Arabic World Museum and many more places of high culture.

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The Pantheon’s impressive ceiling

La Tour d’Argent, founded in 1582, is one of Paris’ historical restaurants. Head to this institution and taste their specialty: a pressed duck made from the same recipe the chefs used back in 1890. The restaurant raise the ducks on their own farm. Those who order the duck receive a postcard with the bird’s serial number. President Franklin D. Roosevelt received #112 and 151, and Charlie Chaplin #253 and 652! They have now served over a million.

The Tour d’Argent’s well-guarded wine cellar contains more than 450,000 bottles, evaluated at 25 million euros in 2009. The wine list contains 15,000 of them, and is 400 pages long.

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Difficult decisions: La Tour d’Argent’s wine list

The restaurant is also mentioned in many works of art. In A Moveable Feast, Ernest Hemingway explains that you could rent a room at La Tour d’Argent, and lodgers received a discount on the meals. Marcel Proust also mentions the restaurant in his famous work À la recherche du temps perdu. And, last but not least, La Tour d’Argent also inspired scenes in Ratatouille, the 2007 Pixar movie.

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World-famous duck (credit: themightyrib.com)

A Bar With A View: Wining And Dining In The Barcelona Sky

Barcelona is a varied city that you should experience on all levels; from the busy streets, to the markets and beaches, to right up in the air. Let me tell you about some high-flying places that allow you to enjoy a great meal or drinks with a view.

Bar/Restaurant El Corte Inglés 

Situated in the very core of the city, this bar/restaurant on the top of the shopping mall offers a spectacular view of the centre of Barcelona. Ideal for a break during a shopping trip, the place offers a variety of foods from around the world, as well as local pastry and coffee. Even if you don’t want to buy anything, it is a worthy stop if you are around Plaça Catalunya.

Isabela at Hotel 1898

Located in Las Ramblas, the bar has a stunning 360-degree view of Barcelona. It is a perfect place to spend an evening and enjoy the beautiful skylines of the city. Isabela also offers a great variety of local tapas (the most popular are the crunchy prawns, stuffed mushrooms with lobster and stuffed potatoes) and cocktails. You don’t have to book in advance, but it is recommended due to its popularity amongst tourists and locals alike.

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A dip in the pool may be on the cards (credit: Hotel 1898)

Wet Bar at W Barcelona

The bar is located right on the beach, where the view of the Barcelona sea front is overwhelming. Although most of the tables are on the terrace, they are reserved for the hotel guests, so try to arrive early to get one that isn’t booked. Get there just before sunset.

The Pulitzer Terrace at Hotel Pulitzer

Also located in the ever-popular Plaça Catalunya, this bar is the go-to in the evening if you fancy vermouth, the new local trendy drink. It is even open before lunch! The terrace is decorated in a style reminiscent of a tropical paradise, enough to make you forget you are in a busy European city. Their menu offers a huge variety of Catalan and Spanish cuisine. Don’t leave without trying the kitchen’s crunchy chicken. The Pulitzer Terrace also stands out thanks to its carefully chosen selection of gins (like Williams Chase), as well as a wide choice of cocktails – from the classics to their own creations prepared by skilful bartenders (a must try).

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Tropical haven (credit: Hotel Pulitzer)

Blue view at Hotel Casa Fuster

Located in Passeig de Gràcia (the equivalent of New York’s 5th Avenue), it offers a great view of central Barcelona. From Thursday to Saturday, there is a DJ on hand to set the mood and accompany you whilst you sip one of the bar’s wide range of cocktails made with premium ingredients. If you want a different type of music scene, you can just head downstairs to the Jazz Lounge to see some great live music.

Restaurant Torre de Alta Mar

Situated not far from the beach, this famous Barcelona restaurant offers a 360-degree view of the city. You can find the restaurant at the top of a 75-metre high tower called the Torre Sant Sebastià. To get there, you can use an elevator or a cable car that goes from Mountjuïc Mountain to the beach. You can enjoy the view whilst eating some of the best dishes of local cuisine and the best seafood of the area. A must try is the daily menu (from Tuesday to Friday) with its lobster and red prawns, stuffed rigatoni seafood and cheese. A glass of wine is also included.

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Luxury dining (credit: Torre de Alta Mar)