Paris

About Montmartre… and wine

Do you know that it’s possible to sip on the fine wine made of grapes grown in a Parisian vineyard? Not many people are aware of this oddity despite that there are five vineyards in the French capital. If you’re going to be in Paris between October 11^th and 15^th, you may consider going to Montmartre to join in the celebration of its 84th wine festival. Here is some information about this unique event:

One of Montmartre’s vineyards, which is called “Clos Montmartre”, has a very unusual history: Montmartre used to be a hill outside of Paris, and for many centuries it was partly covered with vineyards. Unfortunately, by the beginning of the 20^th century, the vineyards were gone and had been replaced by houses and buildings. In 1933, the City of Paris decided to have some constructions built on the wasteland it owned at the corner of rue Saint-Vincent and rue des Saules. The plan was eventually abandoned due to the opposition of local residents. Instead, the association “Le Vieux Montmartre” was allowed to create a vineyard where the wasteland was. This was a true challenge as the land was facing the North and was unable to be exposed to enough sunshine, but somehow the vineyard survived and in 1934 the first “Fete des Vendanges” was organised there, and it has been celebrated every 2^nd week of October ever since.

This harvest festival is extremely famed and captivating. For a period of 5 days, Montmartre will be exceedingly flourishing owing to the concerts, special events, exhibitions, organised visits and even balls that are going to be held over there. One of the special events is “Parcours du Goût” which invites you to taste local food. Moreover, Portugal will be the honoured guest of this year and it will bring you specialties from 5 Portuguese regions. On Thursday, October 12th, you can immerse yourself in the traditional Portuguese singing (Fado concert) at the theatre “Les Trois Baudets”. http://www.lestroisbaudets.com/spectacle/fetes-des-vendanges-lumieres-et-vins-du-portugal/

Traditionally, the “ban des vendanges” is supposed to be the opening of a grape harvest. In Montmartre, the grapes are harvested in September, but there is still a “Ban des Vendanges” during the festivities. It will take place on Saturday, Oct.14th at 10 am at the vineyard. Unfortunately, you can only participate if you are one of the lucky ones who got invited. Otherwise, you still can appreciate the incredibly colourful parade that follows the “Ban des Vendanges” which starts at Clos Montmartre at 11.45 am and finishes at Place Jules Joffrin at 1 pm. You’ll be able to see the members of the République de Montmartre with their long black capes, black hats, and red scarves. Among them are ministers, ambassadors, and of course the president. The “Petits Poulbots” is another local tradition, a drummer group made of young Montmartre inhabitants. The people wearing long capes and holding a banner are “Confréries”, associations of people who have a common interest. Usually, there are also Batucada groups (Brazilian drums) and Bagads (Celtic music) groups from Britanny. This year, Tuna, a group of Portuguese students who pay for their studies by playing music, will participate the event as well. Majorettes (some sort of cheerleaders) and many other surprises are waiting for you!

As for the wine “Clos Montmartre”, let’s be honest, it used to be criticised as “not worth drinking”. Thanks to some enologists, the vineyard experienced positive evolution afterwards. Nowadays, this Parisian wine is said to be “decent”. Clos Montmartre is a small vineyard of less than 2000 square meters, and its usual production varies from 1000 to 2000 bottles a year. The Syndicat d’Initiative of Montmartre has them in the store all year round, and you can also buy one at 50 euros a bottle from their site: https://www.comitedesfetesdemontmartre.com/?p=21.

A bit too expensive for a “decent” wine? Well, it’s a good deed too, since the Syndicat d’Initiative allocates the money to their charitable projects…

Paris: The Best Ice Cream Parlours

With temperatures reaching 28°C this week in Paris, you must be rummaging the streets for a cool and sweet delight. Sweat no more! Make your ice cream break a truly special, truly Parisian event by visiting the best ice cream parlours this city has to offer.

The traditional one: Berthillon

Berthillon is all about tradition, creation and … passion. Situated on the charming Ile Saint-Louis, Berthillon has been hailed the best ice-cream parlour in the world. Founded in 1954, the fabrication process remains unchanged, under the caring surveillance of the founder’s granddaughter. The artisanal ice creams are created on the shop’s first floor, and this institution remains the go-to place for a traditional ice cream. The flavours are also on the traditional side, and the best sellers remain vanilla, chocolate, cafe or salted caramel. Somewhat oddly, the shop is closed in August, but you will easily find places around that sell these ice creams during this month. Keep your eyes open!

Address (closed in August): 29-31 rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile, IVe.

The hip one: Une Glace À Paris

Head to the charming neighbourhood of Le Marais to taste the creations of Olivier Ménard, who previously worked for Pierre Hermé and Harrods (London), and Emmanuel Ryon, who has been elected Meilleur Ouvrier de France as well as World Champion of Patisserie. At Une Glace À Paris, the pair offers twenty-four flavours of artisanal ice creams and sorbets « à la française », made in the shop’s basement. What makes this place special is the mix of different perfumes you can find in a single spoon. If you are an ice-cream fan, try their different flavours in a single scoop such as buckwheat-nougatine or smoked vanilla-baba au rhum. If you are more of a sorbet fan, you can safely go for their best seller: orange, carrot and ginger. The menu extends to other types of patisseries glacées. To share with your family and friends, I suggest their vacherin cake, re-imagined with mango for a modern, fresh twist.

Address: 15 rue Sainte-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, IVe.

The rock and roll one: Glaces Glazed

This time, prepare to be surprised by the striking modernity and boldness of the ice-creams and sorbets you can find at Glaces Glazed. Every ice-cream title is associated with a film or song, and here are a few examples of what you might expect. The Black Sugar Sex Magic is a surprising sorbet of chocolate, wasabi and ginger. The Mojito de Tokyo has a wonderful cocktail of rum, mint and organic lemon in it. Pump up the Volume contains mango and Espelette spice. If you like ice-pops, they have a nice selection as well, including their own Smell Like Teen Spirit, which contains absinthe and apple liquor. This year, you can go even bolder and try their range of wild plant flavours ice-pops. Oh, and they’re really pretty too.

Address: 54 rue des Martyrs, IXe.

The one with a twist: À la Mère de Famille

Now that we are on the subject of ice-pops, À la Mère de Famille has also decided to take the plunge this year and make their own version. The shop is already a Parisian institution for sweets and chocolates, and a must-go for those with a sweet tooth who want to taste French sucreries. They do not disappoint with their ice creams and pops! The twist to their ice-pops is the addition of their own fruit paste, cut in chunk within the juice ice-pop. Un délice! Their ice-cream selection will be a fierce rival in your decision process against the ice-pops, with comforting choices such as my all-time favourite: chocolate-caramel coated with dark chocolate with caramelized almonds.

Address: 35 rue du Faubourg Montmartre IXe.

Bon appétit!

Summer In Paris: 4 Pop-Up Terraces In Beautiful Locations

Paris is one of the world’s most beautiful cities; I will be the first to admit it. But being French, we always have to complain about something: and during summer, the city can become somewhat insufferable. The capital is swarming with tourists, and with every degree (Celsius) over 30, the air gets stuffier and the Parisians grumpier. Thankfully, the city is ready this year and offers wonderful opportunities to deeply enjoy Paris in style, while taking a break in one of the following beautiful terraces.

L’été de Saint-Germain

Nestled behind the famous Saint-Germain des Prés Abbey, L’Été de Saint-Germain is a perfect place to rest after a visit to the historical location. The bar is located in the Palais Abbatial, built in 1586 for the Cardinal de Bourbon. The terrace and its majestic trees offer a peaceful location to enjoy an afternoon tea or an evening cocktail. With concerts of a wide variety – ranging from French pop to rock and jazz –, this historical hangout will be filled with both locals and well-informed tourists for the whole summer.

Summer House at the Mona Bismarck American Center

Head up the Seine from the Champs Élysées to reach the Mona Bismarck American Center. This cultural centre has everything planned for the season with its bustling summerhouse! Concerts and open-air cinema sessions will be hosted there (Singin’ in the Rain is on the calendar!), with delicious food offered by different guest chefs. If you want a calm evening, visit the summerhouse during the week when chill music with food and wine tasting are offered. The location itself is very unique – a 400 square metre beautiful terrace in the dreamy scenery of a 19th hotêl particulier, across the Seine from the Eiffel Tower. You can enjoy this terrace until 30^th September.

Les Nocturnes du Café Renoir at the Musée Montmartre

In the bustling quartier of Montmartre, a bucolic and peaceful café opens its doors to visitors everyday, and exceptionally this summer on Thursday nights. Situated inside the Musée Montmartre, discover the romantic scenery where the illustrious painter Renoir lived for a while. A much-needed secret haven to relax from Montmartre’s busy streets, the garden is best enjoyed with a cup of tea and a cake, or indeed on Thursday nights for the Nocturnes, where cocktails and wines are served under the stars.

Le Bar à Ciel Ouvert by Krug

In terms of luxurious summer Parisian experiences, nothing can beat a glass of champagne with a spectacular view of the Eiffel Tower. This is what Le Bar à Ciel Ouvert by Krug offers until August 26th. The bar is the result of a collaboration between the Hotel Shangri-La and Krug, the world’s best-rated House of Champagne. The hotel itself was built in the 19th century, and is part of the Historical Monuments of Paris since 2009. One of the most beautiful rooms of the hotel has been remodelled for the occasion, and the magic happens on the terrace. Open from 6 pm to 11 pm, at Le Bar à Ciel Ouvert, you can enjoy the sun setting behind the Eiffel tower while tasting prestigious champagnes of the illustrious house.

Paris: Discover The French Impressionists

Interested in a stay in this cultural hotspot? Check out our latest apartments.

In the 1860s, when Impressionism first made its appearance on the Parisian art scene, Impressionist paintings were considered scandalous. The painters captured modernity by choosing subjects that represented modern life, and by using different painting styles from the ones traditionally taught in Parisian schools. Impressionists also symbolised a Bohemian life that many were opposed to. Let us take a little Parisian tour of the museums where you can admire Impressionist collections, and cafés where Impressionists used to « refaire le monde », in other words, think the world anew.

Many wonderful museums have extensive Impressionist collections in Paris, and I cannot imagine a visit to the city without going to at least one.

The Musée Marmottan Monet has 300 Impressionist and post-Impressionist paintings. Among them, Impression Soleil Levant, the piece that gave the movement its final name. Interesting fact: the term “Impressionists” was first used by art critics as an insult!

1280px-Claude_Monet,_Impression,_soleil_levant — Monet’s “Soleil Levant”

At the Musée d’Orsay, the whole 5th floor is dedicated to Impressionism, with paintings by Monet, Renoir, Sisley, Manet, and many others. Even though many museums place paintings by Manet in the same room as Impressionists, it is interesting to note that Manet refused to associate with these new painters, and refused to exhibit with them in their time. The Musée d’Orsay currently hosts a wonderful exhibition. You can visit Beyond the Stars, The Mystical Landscape from Monet to Kadinsky which will run until 25^th June. Even if you are only visiting the regular collection, make sure to buy your tickets in advance as queues to the museum get extremely long.

Eduard Manet’s “Le déjeuner sur l’herbe”

Across the Seine from the Musée d’Orsay, in the Jardin des Tuileries, is the Musée de l’Orangerie, where the impressive Nympheas, Monet’s masterpieces, are kept in two dedicated rooms. Sit in the centre and surround yourself in this river of colours, of greens and blues. I could stay there for hours! On the bottom floor, 144 Impressionist and post-Impressionist pieces are also waiting to be admired.

Musée_de_l'Orangerie_February_28,_2009 — Have a sit down and enjoy Nympheas by Monet

Cafés were an important social place for Impressionists. There, they painted their modern subjects, discussed techniques with other painters, and discussed art with other artists: writers, poets, musicians… Unfortunately, time and the requirements of urbanism have transformed almost all the cafés, but I still like to walk through the streets often frequented by Monet, Baudelaire or Renoir.

At the Café Guerbois, Emile Zola was a regular, and Manet started coming in 1866, when his studio was at 34 boulevard des Batignolles. Today, a shoe shop at 9 Rue De Clichy has replaced it. It is a known fact that, in 1870, Manet slapped his friend and art critic Edmond Duranty in the Café Guerbois because of an article the latter had written. They had a duel, but thankfully no one got seriously injured, and the two eventually made up.

The Café de la Nouvelle-Athènes at the Place Pigalle was a meeting-place for artists like Manet and Degas around the end of the 1870s. It was destroyed in 2004.

Last but not least, the Brasserie des Martyrs. It is the only place that has not been destroyed, and is in fact still a place where art is discussed. It is now called the Divan du Monde (the world’s sofa) and is a cabaret-restaurant at 75 Rue des Martyrs and is just a short walk from our Sacré-Coeur Charme Residence.

Enjoy your time in Paris, the city that witnessed and contributed to the development of French Impressionism!

Paris: How To Spend A Day With Rodin

The year 2017 marks the centenary of the death of the French sculptor Auguste Rodin. This is why you’ll hear a lot about him, should you visit France this year.

If you’re staying in our apartments in Paris, here’s a suggestion on how you could spend a day with Rodin and learn many things about this great artist.

A centenary exhibition has been organised at the Grand Palais (3 Avenue du Général Eisenhower) until July 31^st. It is a huge success, and in order to avoid queuing up for hours, you can book your ticket here. It is also a good idea to choose an audio-guide. Since many people are expected to visit this excellent exhibition, I would recommend heading there in the morning. Besides learning more about Rodin and his art, you will find information on the history behind many of his works as well as his influence on other artists.

Home of the exhibition: Paris’s stunning Grand Palais (credit: Getty Images)

You may have heard of the sculptress Camille Claudel. This amazing woman met Rodin in 1882. He was 42, she was 18. Together with other young female artists, she was practicing her art under the direction of sculptor Alfred Boucher. As Boucher was going to be in Rome for several months, he asked Rodin to replace him. Soon, Rodin noticed how talented Camille was. In 1884, she started working for him. Eventually, the two artists became passionate lovers and rivals.

Untitled design-5 — Camille Claudel and a fellow sculptress in her studio

The exhibition will enable you to compare what Rodin and Camille Claudel made of the same model, an elderly lady. Rodin saw her as “Celle qui fût la belle Heaulmière”, named after a poem on lost youth and beauty. More originally, Camille Claudel created “Clotho”, a strange statue representing the youngest of the Three Fates in Greek mythology, who decide human destiny.

You will also be able to admire a mask of Camille Claudel, assembled with a reproduction of a hand of Pierre de Wissant. This mask highlights the simple beauty and frailty of Camille as a young woman.

Untitled design-7 — Same model: Celle qui fût la belle Heaulmière (Rodin) versus Clotho (Claudel)

To continue your day with Rodin, you could spend the afternoon at Musée Rodin (77 rue de Varenne). The museum is in a mansion known as Hôtel Biron, and surrounded by a large and pleasant garden, right in the middle of Paris.

You can enhance your visit of the museum and of the garden with an excellent audio-guide. It will give you additional information on Rodin’s masterpieces. One room of the museum is dedicated to Camille Claudel. There, the outstanding originality and talent of this artist is made obvious.

However, the end of Camille’s life was tragic. After years of passionate love, Rodin and Camille Claudel parted. Camille wanted Rodin to marry her, but he seemed unable to separate from Rose Beuret, a seamstress he had met during his youth. Rodin tried to help Camille and boost her career, but she grew suspicious of him. She would refer to him as “la fouine”, the snoop. Gradually, Camille became so isolated and hard to deal with that after her father’s death, her family decided to have her locked in a mental institution. She remained there until her death in 1943. During the 30 long years of her seclusion, her mother and her sister never visited her. Her brother, Paul Claudel, who had become a well-known writer, visited her on 13 occasions.

Untitled design-3 — Scenic grounds: the setting of Musée Rodin

By the time Camille was put in a mental institution, Rodin was an old man. Apart from sending her money, he was not able to give much support. Rodin had many mistresses and never parted from Rose Beuret. However, Camille Claudel had a special place in his heart. When he planned Musée Rodin, he included an exhibition space for Camille’s works. In so doing, Rodin made the link between his work and the work of his unfortunate love unforgettable.

Paris: The Must-See Ballets This Season

Paris is a city of many wonders and its inspiring artistic tradition is a big reason for its magic. A visit to Paris would not be complete without going to see a show at one of the wonderful stages the city has to offer, the most famed being that of the Palais Garnier, a majestic building and source of inspiration for The Phantom of the Opera. We are approaching the end of ballet’s summer-spring season, but Opéra de Paris still has plenty of contemporary dance and classical ballets to suit your tastes:

À Bras-le-Corps – Dimitri Chamblas, Boris Charmatz

Palais Garnier, March 16 – May 2

Dimitri Chamblas and Boris Charmatz became friends during their studies at the Paris Opera Ballet School. They co-authored À Bras-le-Corps in 1993. Their work has been described as ground-breaking for French dance. With music by Niccolò Paganini, the ballet was first shown in a type of boxing-ring and is still performed by the two choreographers, who have let the ballet evolve with them.

Get tickets here.

Merce Cunningham / William Forsythe

Palais Garnier, April 14 – May 13

You will also have the chance to see a French take on the American style through three works: one choreographed by Merce Cunningham and two by William Forsythe, united as one representation lasting just under two hours. Merce Cunningham’s Walkaround Time (1968) is a modern ballet, set to David Behrman’s music. In Paris, the sets are inspired by the works of surrealist Marcel Duchamps. On his side, William Forsythe explores the limit of classical ballet with his two offerings created in the 1990s, while Trio contains Beethoven’s composition.

Get tickets here.

women dancing ballet — Rehearsals for the varied performance (credit: Ann Ray / OnP)

Robbins / Balanchine/ Cherkaoui, Jalet

Palais Garnier, May 2 – May 27

These are three symphonic ballets set to the music of Maurice Ravel: inspired by different music styles, namely valse, jazz and boléro. Le Boléro – the third ballet performed for this consecrated show, is considered one of his most famous works, which he composed on a recommendation from his friend Ida Rubinstein and then dedicated to her. An interesting fact about this piece is that Ravel was rather dissatisfied with the international success the ballet received and felt that the piece was « empty of music ».

Get tickets here.

La Sylphide – Pierre Lacotte

Palais Garnier, June 1 – June 16

La Sylphide was created in 1832 by Filippo Taglioni at the Opéra de Paris, with music by Jean Scheitzhoeffer. Filippo Taglioni created this ballet especially for his daughter, Marie Taglioni, who danced in the first representation of it with what some say was the first tutu! He took into account his daughter’s peculiar body with her long legs and arms, large hands and ill-formed toes of the same length, allowing her exceptional balance on her tips. The ballet received immediate praise in 1832, but was forgotten by the end of the century. Pierre Lacotte revived La Sylphide for the Paris Opera Ballet in 1972, and it is this version you can attend in June.

Get tickets here.

must see ballet — A previous representation of La Sylphide in Paris (credit: Ann Ray / OnP)

Drumming Live – Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker’s

Opéra Bastille, July 1 – July 15

Head to a representation of Drumming Live this season at the Opéra Bastille to see what is considered to be the Belgian choreograph Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker’s best work. This contemporary dance piece’s musical score was created by the minimalist New York composer Steve Reich. Performed several times since its creation in 1998, this original and quite abstract ballet follows particular music with 12 dancers bathed in a fluorescent orange light.

Get tickets here.

By the way, if you can’t get tickets for your preferred date, try La Bourse aux Billets for additional sales: http://boursechange.operadeparis.fr/.

Bon ballet!

Paris And Piaf: A Match Made In Heaven

Here’s a test: close your eyes and think of Paris. Now, what do you hear? Many will hear some kind of music, often involving an accordion. This is probably the result of watching numerous films where a scene set in Paris is heralded by some romantic music. Or maybe you’ll hear a powerful voice singing “La Vie en Rose” or “Non, rien de rien”? That is Edith Piaf, the wonderful Parisian. In this case, you must be a true fan.

Edith, whose real name was Édith Giovanna Gassion, had such an incredible life that one might think she is a fictional character. Born in Paris in December 1915, her mother was a café and street singer, her father a street acrobatic performer. Her mother left her with her maternal grandmother, who did not take proper care of her. Later, her father took Edith from that grandmother, and left her in Normandy, where his own mother ran a brothel. Edith was raised surrounded by prostitutes. Later, when she was nine, her father took her back to Paris, and she helped him collect money as he performed in the streets. One day, he asked her to sing to add to the show.

Edith-Piaf-une-voix-qui-vibre-toujours — Pensive Piaf (credit: Stafford Marilyn/SIPA)

At 15, she decided to leave her father. To survive, she took odd jobs and sang in the streets with a friend, until she was discovered in 1936 by a cabaret owner. He asked her to sing in his cabaret and that was the beginning of her career, which ended all too soon, in 1963. She died, exhausted by a life of tragedies and triumphs, abuse of alcohol and pain-killers for her polyarthritis – but happily married to her last love, Theo Sarapo, who was 20 years her junior.

Should you be an Edith Piaf fan, you could enhance your stay in Paris with a tour of some locations. Would you like to visit one of the apartments where Edith lived early in her career? One of her fans has transformed it into a small private museum dedicated to her, Le Musée Édith Piaf (5 rue Crespin-du-Gast). Here, you will be able to see one of the little black dresses she wore onstage and many objects that belonged to her. Remember to make an appointment by calling the number 01 43 55 52 72.

Untitled design-4 — An insight into Edith Piaf’s mind (credit: Getty Images)

After this, why not visit the places where she sang, that are still open to the public?

Bobino (14-20, rue de la Gaîté) hosts concerts, one-man shows and musicals. Piaf sang there in the late 1930s. It is also just a small walk away from our Tuilerie Parc residence.

Here’s an excellent reason for spending an evening at the Moulin Rouge (82 boulevard Clichy) and enjoying their slightly “risqué” shows: Edith Piaf sang there in the spring of 1944.

It is thanks to her that the music hall L’Olympia (28 boulevard des Capucines) still exists. Bruno Coquatrix was its manager in the early 1960s. When he realised it was going bankrupt, he asked his friend Edith Piaf to help him out of his predicament. At the time, her health was in decline, but she could not resist the challenge. Besides, she wanted to introduce her new song “Non, rien de rien” to the public. As her first 30 performances were a triumph, she went on, despite her increasing frailty. At the end of Piaf’s 90 performancess, the financial situation of L’Olympia was no longer a problem. Nowadays, a wide variety of singers and groups perform at the venue. If you’re staying at our Michodière residence, it is worth the 10 minute walk.

p48piafoutsideAFP_1 — Crowds gather for Edith Piaf outside L’Olympia (credit: Getty Hulton Archive)

Have you ever visited Père Lachaise cemetery (16 rue du Repos)? It is an extraordinary, beautiful place, where many rich and famous Parisians are buried. Edith Piaf is one of them, and you could finish your pilgrimage with a walk through Père Lachaise to visit her tomb.

Edith Piaf loved Paris and sang various songs about the French capital. She hasn’t been forgotten by Parisians yet, and many can still sing a few of her songs.

Food February: A Vegetarian In Paris

Vegetarian? Planning on going to Paris soon ? Oh, là, là ! Be prepared, vegetarians are not that common in France. As a matter of fact, only about 3 percent of the population of France is vegetarian, and vegans are even rarer. This may sound barbaric to some but, in France, only a few restaurants announce that they offer a vegetarian menu. And beware, there are horror stories about vegetarian menus being a mix of vegetables fresh out of a tin with a few leaves of lettuce!

However, you don’t have to starve in Paris . You can still go to most restaurants. Here are a few suggestions:

If you are brave enough to try your French over the phone, why not call the restaurants you are interested in and ask what they suggest for vegetarians? For example, at the trendy trattoria ‘Daroco’ (6 Rue Vivienne), only a few minutes away from the Louvre museum, you could have fresh pasta with gorgonzola cheese or linguini with truffle.

DAROCO — Daroco’s trendy interior (credit: Le Figaro)

For those who don’t dare try the phone-calling experience, be aware that many restaurants have a website, and you can often examine their menu before even stepping outside. Let’s try the very French ‘Bistrot des Vosges’ (31 Boulevard Beaumarchais), close to the beautiful Place des Vosges. One of the first items on their menu (‘la carte’) is a vegetarian or vegan salad. You could also try their Galette au Chèvre, a buckwheat pancake with goat cheese, or their Omelette des Burons, an omelette with Buron cheese and potatoes. But sorry, they do use beef broth to make their tempting Soupe à l’Oignon.

Speaking of buckwheat pancakes, galettes de sarrasin are the main courses of Crêperie restaurants, where you can also have all sort of crêpes for dessert. You must take a look at the amazing décor of ‘Crêperie Josselin‘ ( 67 Rue du Montparnasse), near the Gare Montparnasse. Some of their buckwheat pancakes are served with vegetables only. Should you want to try any other pancake on the menu, just ask the waiter to make a meatless version of it – that will not be a problem.

But you may be craving a more wholesome vegetarian or vegan meal. In this case, here are some places you should try:

You might want to know what ‘shrimp kebab (soy protein) with pineapple & lemon grass’ or ‘mushroom loaf with a blackberry-ginger sauce’ tastes like. If so, try ‘VegetHalles‘ (41 Rue des Bourdonnais), a restaurant dedicated to vegetarians and vegans. You can start by exploring their surprising menu online. It is advised to make a reservation as the restaurant is quite popular as well as being situated in the busy area of Les Halles.

brochette_crevettes — Soya protein kebab (credit: VegetHalles)

‘Tien Hiang‘(14 Rue Bichat) is a fairly original restaurant close to Canal Saint Martin. It specialises in Asian food that is also vegetarian and vegan. Whenever a dish traditionally requires meat, the meat is replaced with soya protein. Look at the pictures on their online menu, the result is truly amazing. Vegans, the only dish that is not for you is Marmite Tien Hiang, which uses cheese.

‘Le Grenier de Notre Dame‘(18 Rue de la Bûcherie), as you may have guessed, is only a few minutes away from Notre Dame Cathedral. It was the first vegetarian restaurant to open in Paris, in 1978. For decades, it has successfully persuaded Parisians to try vegetarian food. Unfortunately, they are currently closed for renovation. Good news is they are expected to re-open anytime around mid-March.

8050208803_445dcf746f — Fresh, local produce (credit: Le Grenier de Notre Dame)

Now, as the French would say, ‘Bon Appétit’!

Love At First Bite: A Food Trip Around Paris

Escargots, steak tartare, soupe à l’oignon, choucroute, coq au vin, pâté en croûte, cassoulet, boeuf bourguignon … Have I got your attention? These mouth-watering dishes are on the menus of many Parisian brasseries and bistrots and might be the reason why visitors fall in love with the French capital at first bite.

Most of our apartments are located in Paris’s most prestigious and beautiful areas: the Marais, the 2^nd Arrondissement, and the Latin Quarter. Paris is not only a perfect destination to discover the most skilled fashion designers, is also one of the culinary meccas in the world. Let me tell you a bit about the history of these neighborhoods and the types of food you can find there.

Close-up on: Le Marais

It is home to the oldest covered market in the city, the Marché des Enfants Rouges, where fresh produce and different national cuisines abound. Interestingly, the French word ‘marais’ means swamp, and this is exactly what the area was well before it became one of Paris’s most beautiful neighbourhoods.

The first inhabitants were Templars and they arrived at this former pasture land in the 9th century. A Templar’s tomb was even found during engineering works for the Parisian metro at the beginning of the 20th century! Fleeing high taxes, others came to join the Templars in the 14th century, giving the neighbourhood an economic boost. By 1605, the Marais became a Royal Quarter, when Henry IV constructed the Place des Vosges (formerly called the Royal Square). From then on, and until the end of the 17th century, rich families built ‘hôtels particuliers’, mansions, and even churches.

detail_place_des_vosges — Detail at Place des Vosges

The Jewish community appeared as soon as the 13th century. Today, many people come to the famous Rue des Rosiers, the emblematic street of the Jewish Quarter, to taste the best falafels in Paris.

Last time I was in the Marais, I fell upon a true gem called Miznon, in a street parallel to the Rue des Rosiers. Their traditional pita bread is imported from Jerusalem and re-heated on site. They also offer wonderfully steamed, then baked, vegetables that will make you reconsider your view on cauliflower. I ended up asking for the recipe! The Marais is one of the only neighbourhoods where the shops are open on Sundays (the French take this resting day very seriously), so it can get crowded on the weekends.

Wholesome food (credit: EC/EH in Timeout)

Walking along the Rue des Rosiers, pay attention to the shop signs and names: you will often see “Boulangerie” written on top of a clothes shop, in an effort to preserve the history of the place. Quite a surprising contrast!

Close-up on: The 2nd Arrondissement

The 2nd Arrondissement is organised around the old Parisian stock exchange (the Bourse) and is home to La Place des Victoires, one of the five royal squares of the city. It was once surrounded by three medieval walls. Due to the limited space available, there was no more room for new constructions by the end of the 18th century. Since then, if you are looking to construct a new building, you need to knock one down first.

This arrondissement is also where you can find most of the Parisian “galleries marchandes”, the impressive 19th century commercial arcades. Back in the day, entrepreneurs built the first of these paved pedestrian passageways as Paris lacked decent streets and sidewalks, a hindrance for to their business.

The area is full of theatres and close to the Opera Garnier, which famously inspired Gaston Leroux’s The Phantom of the Opera. What’s more, you can find the shortest inhabited street of Paris in the 2^nd arrondissement: it is only 5.75m long. Technically a couple of steps, the Rue des Degrés links the Rue de Cléry and the Rue Beauregard.

smalleststreet-copy — I’ll meet you at the top: miniature street (soundlandscapes.wordpress)

The area also features 12 Rue Chabanais which, until 1946, stood as the most famous brothel of Paris. Many politicians and royals from all over Europe would often visit… The place was extremely luxurious and even had Toulouse-Lautrec paintings on its walls!

The Montorgueil Market, located at the centre of the quarter, is full of traditional products. Its village atmosphere makes you travel back in time and space. You can find local butchers, fishmongers, breadmakers, and all kinds of other foods here.

It is also the home of the ‘Baba au Rhum’, the rum baba, first sold in the oldest patisserie of Paris, founded in 1725. Go visit La Patisserie Stohrer in the Montorgueil Market to get a taste of this delicious cake. The shop is actually classified as a historical, grade I listed building.

babaaurhum1_440 — Famous delicacy ‘Baba au Rhum’ (credit: Patisserie Stohrer)

You can also book a table at Gérard Depardieu’s restaurant, La Fontaine Gaillon, one of many good eateries of the area. Why not taste his wine and tell us what you think?

Close-up on: The Latin Quarter

Until 1789, Latin was the language of teaching in this quarter, hence its name. The neighbourhood is still the home of many universities today, including France’s prestigious La Sorbonne (founded in 1253). The Sorbonne still has many beautiful, specialised libraries. Due to its high number of students, the quarter was also the hub of the events of May 1968.

In 52 BC, the Romans settled in the area, and certain vestiges of their time can be visited today, such as the roman baths. You can also see go visit the Pantheon, the Arabic World Museum and many more places of high culture.

paris-pantheon — The Pantheon’s impressive ceiling

La Tour d’Argent, founded in 1582, is one of Paris’ historical restaurants. Head to this institution and taste their specialty: a pressed duck made from the same recipe the chefs used back in 1890. The restaurant raise the ducks on their own farm. Those who order the duck receive a postcard with the bird’s serial number. President Franklin D. Roosevelt received #112 and 151, and Charlie Chaplin #253 and 652! They have now served over a million.

The Tour d’Argent’s well-guarded wine cellar contains more than 450,000 bottles, evaluated at 25 million euros in 2009. The wine list contains 15,000 of them, and is 400 pages long.

The restaurant is also mentioned in many works of art. In A Moveable Feast, Ernest Hemingway explains that you could rent a room at La Tour d’Argent, and lodgers received a discount on the meals. Marcel Proust also mentions the restaurant in his famous work À la recherche du temps perdu. And, last but not least, La Tour d’Argent also inspired scenes in Ratatouille, the 2007 Pixar movie.

tda8 — World-famous duck (credit: themightyrib.com)

Paris: The Best Restaurants To Dine In This Year

When visiting a gastronomic restaurant, you may feel overwhelmed by the numerous food choices in front of you. On the other hand, you may already be well aware of the Parisian fine dining scene, but just not sure where to start. Fret no more, here are a few of Paris’s hottest restaurants for you to visit this year.

Daroco (6 Rue Vivienne) a former workshop space, serves modern Italian cuisine and has become one of Paris’s most sought after restaurants. The green marble table tops paired with designer chairs gives this restaurant a unique decoration. All the pizzas are cooked in a wood fire oven giving them an authentically rustique Italian taste, contrasted by waiters wearing typically Parisian Breton stripes. Try their grilled octopus as an appetiser or indulge in their ‘linguine alla carbonara’, before moving on to the homemade tiramisu if you still have room for dessert. This Italian eatery with modern crafted cocktails and fashionable dining will quickly become your go-to restaurant for special occasions or date nights.

For all seafood lovers who not only want fresh produce but also enjoy washing it down with innovative cocktails, head down to The Fish Club (58 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau). The name speaks for itself. The fish-focused menu of this previously ‘ceviche’ restaurant has been revamped, now offering a selection of seafood served in a minimalist restaurant. Amidst a selection of marine dishes, the appetiser assortment includes smoked eel, grilled lobster and grey shrimp. You can even order octopus with beetroot: the menu will surely tickle your fancy! If you’re feeling more romantic, or just want to treat yourself, why not order a glass of champagne to accompany their fresh oysters.

If, after a long day of shopping, or a night of dancing in Parisian clubs, you’re looking for something more casual to satisfy your hunger cravings, head to Big Corner (143 Avenue Jean Jaurès). With melted mozzarella, fresh french cheeses, pesto, and more, slathered on an oozing beef patty between two sesame buns, this New York-style burger joint will have any meat lover drooling. It’s an artsy, brightly-coloured restaurant serving only the freshest ingredients. If you’re not a burger addict but get dragged by friends, why not go for one of their club sandwiches, hot dogs, salads or even fish and chips? There’s nothing Big Corner can’t do.

For those of you with a sweet tooth, La Crêperie Bretonne (56 Rue du Montparnasse) is the place to be. Aside from the fact that you can’t go to Paris without trying one of their world famous crêpes, this cosy little crêperie is typically French and its lovely staff will make you feel right at home. Their homemade salted caramel crêpe will leave you wanting more. In addition to crêpes, La Crêperie Bretonne also serves the Parisian speciality of ‘galettes’, which you can coat in jam, Nutella or whatever your heart desires.

To add to the Michelin-starred Parisian dining scene, Jacques Faussat, a famous Michelin-starred chef himself, recently opened what has been described as a little gem hidden away between the Parisian streets. His restaurant, aptly named Jacques Faussat (54 Rue Cardinet), has quickly become well-known for its exquisite dishes. Although very rarely discovered by tourists, this unique brasserie offers Parisian cuisine in a more luxurious environment to make your evening very special. Whether your adventurous side urges you pick the tasting menu, or you opt for ordering à la carte, the small yet carefully crafted fresh menu will not disappoint.

For a more relaxed but still exciting dinner, head to Mascotte Montmartre (52 Rue des Abbesses). The more laid-back bistro is perfect for an alternative Parisian night out and its extensive menu will satisfy all of your cravings. Though specialising in fresh seafood, choosing between their delicatessen sea products and their homemade ‘cassoulet‘, a beef stew marinated in red wine sauce, will prove a difficult choice. It is recommended to pair these dishes with a crisp French wine before topping off your meal with a selection of cheeses, or a delicious goat-milk yoghurt accompanied with sweet red fruit puree. For the chocolate addicts, try a slice of the chocolate and praline ‘love cake’, you’ll definitely love it!